一個週末走遍東京東 36 Hours in Eastern Tokyo
One of the most daunting cities for foreign visitors, Tokyo is a manic, hyperactive assault on the senses. But steady your focus and you’ll notice that a distinct strand of traditional elements also weaves through the Japanese capital. Even without leaving Eastern Tokyo, here defined as the area east of the Imperial Palace, a visitor can experience the enormous breadth of what this mesmerizing metropolis has to offer. From boutiques blooming in abandoned spaces to new ramen shops taking root amid glittering high-rises, Eastern Tokyo promises — now more than ever — to leave even experienced travelers wide-eyed with wonder.
對外國遊客而言，東京是世界上最令人眼花繚亂的城市之一，喧譁躁動不斷衝擊着感官。但是定睛觀察，你會發現日本首都也有一絲鮮明的傳統元素交織在其中。即便只停留在東京東部地區（指皇居[Imperial Palace]以東的區域），遊客也能體驗到這座迷人的大都市非同一般的多樣性。這裏有讓廢棄空間重煥生機的精品店，也有紮根在璀璨高樓中的新拉麪館。如今，東京東部比以往任何時候都更令人大開眼界，即使是經驗豐富的旅行者也會有驚喜。
Friday
星期五
1. Under the Tracks | 2 p.m.
1.鐵軌下的創意空間：下午2:00
In this densely built-up city, it takes ingenuity to create commercial space where none existed. That’s part of the appeal of Maach Ecute Kanda Manseibashi, a handsome riverside complex that opened in 2013 under the red-brick viaduct of the historic Manseibashi railway station, which had been closed since 1943. After browsing the handful of shops selling everything from bamboo matcha whisks to printed handkerchiefs, ascend the old staircase to watch Chuo line trains rumble mere feet from either side of the rooftop cafe N3331, set between the tracks. For another example of creative repurposing, explore the collective of shops called 2k540 Aki-Oka Artisan that opened in an arcade beneath elevated railway tracks. Among the dozens of stores filled with handcrafted wares, don’t miss the elegant wooden toys at Nocra or the spellbinding goods in Soshin Kaleidoscopes.
在這座建築密集的城市，想要在擁擠的空間裏再打造出一塊商業區，就需要另闢蹊徑。這便是神田萬世橋(Maach Ecute Kanda Manseibashi)的魅力所在。這一位於河畔的綜合性商業設施在2013年開幕，坐落在一座紅磚結構的高架橋下，此處正是舊火車站“萬世橋站”的所在地，從1943年車站被關閉後就一直閒置。這裏的商品琳琅滿目，從竹製抹茶筅到印花手帕應有盡有。逛完商店，沿舊樓梯拾級而上，看着往來的中央線(Chuo line)列車隆隆駛過，而屋頂咖啡館N3331就開在兩條軌道中間，距軌道僅一步之遙。2k540手藝人街(2k540 Aki-Oka Artisan)是將舊址轉型爲創意空間的又一典範。這條商店街位於高架鐵軌下方的一個商場裏，在衆多手工藝品店裏，別錯過Nocra的優雅木製娃娃，還有創心萬華鏡(Soshin Kaleidoscopes)裏那些令人着迷的商品。
2. Art Anomaly | 4 p.m.
2. 別具一格的藝術展：下午4:00
Ginza is a glamorous shopping district dominated by luxury department stores and high-end designer boutiques, which makes the continued survival of the artist-filled Okuno Building so unusual. The brick tenement, built in the 1930s, is crammed with over 50 studios, workshops and galleries. Take the rickety elevator — said to be the last of its kind in the city — to the sixth floor and then work your way down through the low-ceilinged rooms displaying everything from hand-thrown ceramics to wrapped-yarn sea creatures. Keep an eye out for Galerie Sawarabi, a closet-size, second-floor gallery that recently exhibited a hauntingly beautiful collection of silk-screen paintings.
銀座(Ginza)是一個富有魅力的購物區，奢飾品店和高端設計師精品店隨處可見，這讓那座始終安處於此的奧野大樓(Okuno Building)顯得極爲不尋常。這棟磚樓建於20世紀30年代，是藝術家的大本營，裏面有50多間工作室、作坊和畫廊。搭乘搖搖晃晃的電梯——據說是東京僅剩的一部老式電梯——到達六層，然後順着這些低矮的屋子一間間逛過去。這些房間裏展示着各式藝術品，比如手製陶器，以及包紗線的海洋生物。還可以留意一下Sawarabi畫廊(Galerie Sawarabi)，這間狹小的兩層畫廊近期展出的絹畫系列美得讓人縈繞於心。
3. Slurp Shops | 6:30 p.m.
3. 囫圇吞面：晚上6:30
Ramen is dead? Hardly. The Japanese government recently announced investments of up to 2 billion yen (over $17 million) in Ippudo’s parent company to support the worldwide proliferation of their noodle shops. And in the heart of Ginza, two stylish, newish spots are doing their own form of trailblazing with deliciously distinct bowls. At Mugi to Olive, slurp a light bowl of the signature clam ramen (980 yen, or $8.40 at 116 Japanese yen to the dollar) or forgo broth entirely by ordering the silky umami-rich mazesoba that arrives crowned with a sunset-orange yolk (840 yen). Mere blocks away, devotees line up in the dim alley outside Kagari, an eight-seat shop that opened in 2013. Join them to sample the revelatory tori paitan soba (880 yen), a steaming bowl of chicken, seasonal vegetables and noodles in a creamy chicken-based broth.
拉麪已死？這麼說還爲時尚早。日本政府近期宣佈，向一風堂(Ippudo)的母公司提供總額達20億日元（超過1700萬美元）的資金，以支持他們的拉麪館向海外拓張。而在銀座的中心地帶，有兩家新開的拉麪館正用自己獨特的產品開拓市場。在Mugi to Olive，你可以呼嚕呼嚕地吞下一小碗他們的特色蛤蜊拉麪（980日元，按116日元兌換1美元計算，約合8.4美元），也可以不要肉湯，選擇口感順滑、鮮味豐富的幹撈拉麪，上面有一顆日落橙色的蛋黃（840日元）。兩三個街區以外，在Kagari外面昏暗的巷子裏排着長隊，這家2013年開業的拉麪館在只有8個座位。一碗tori paitan soba（880日元）會爲你揭開長隊的祕密——光滑細膩的雞湯打底，熱氣騰騰的拉麪配有雞肉和時令蔬菜。
4. Sipping Shimbashi | 9:30 p.m.
4. 新橋小酌：晚上9:30
Avoid Ginza’s stuffy cocktail bars, and their sky-high seating fees, by heading south to Shimbashi, an area favored by hard-partying salarymen who work in the surrounding skyscrapers. Start at the refined sake bar Kuri, which stocks over 100 varieties of nihonshu and serves three-cup tasting flights (from 950 yen). Then walk under the train tracks to Dry-Dock, a tiny nautical-themed bar with porthole windows and a rotating selection of top domestic craft beers on tap. Finish the night at the even smaller Oyster Bal Bono, a divey new bar where you can pair a pint with a plate of fresh oysters.
避開銀座那些擁擠不堪、漫天要價的雞尾酒吧，去南邊的新橋區(Shimbashi)，周邊的摩天大樓裏那些熱衷派對的上班族們都中意這個地方。可以從考究的清酒吧Kuri開始。那裏貯存着超過100種日本酒(nihonshu)，提供含三杯酒的試飲套餐（起價950日元）。然後沿着鐵軌下方走到Dry-Dock，這是一家精緻的海洋主題酒吧，窗戶設計成舷窗的樣子，可以在一個轉盤上選擇國內頂級的桶裝手工啤酒。最後，在小酒館Oyster Bal Bono結束這一天吧。在這家新開的潛水酒吧，你可以點一盤新鮮的生蠔配酒。
Saturday
星期六
5. Museum Morning | 9:30 a.m.
5.博物館的早晨：上午9:30
When there’s time to visit only one museum, make it the Tokyo National Museum, a vast complex housing impressive thematic collections (admission, 620 yen). The main building’s second-floor “Highlights of Japanese Art,” with exhibitions dedicated to topics like Zen and ink painting, provides an instructive primer on both culture and art. The adjacent modernist structure Toyokan, which reopened in 2013, contains refurbished galleries filled with early Chinese icons and a grisly mummy, among the Asian artifacts. And don’t miss the army of ancient terra-cotta soldiers of China’s First Emperor, part of a special exhibition in the Heiseikan galleries (Oct. 27 to Feb. 21).
如果你的時間只夠逛一家博物館，那就去東京國立博物館(Tokyo National Museum)，這座宏偉的建築羣中有一些令人印象深刻的專題系列館藏（門票620日元）。主樓的二層是“日本藝術精華”展(“Highlights of Japanese Art”)，展品涵蓋從禪到水墨畫的各種主題，對文化和藝術都是有益的啓蒙。毗鄰的臺東區(Toyokan)現代結構展在2013年重新開放，包括一些整修後的畫廊，其中的亞洲手工藝展品中有一些古代中國的人像，以及一具令人毛骨悚然的木乃伊。別錯過中國第一個王朝的兵馬俑，位於Heiseikan畫廊裏的特展區（展出時間：2015年10月27日至2016年2月21日）。
6. Lunch Counter | Noon
6.簡便午餐：正午
Who needs décor when you can admire a perfect plate of food? The unassuming luncheonette Maruyama Kippei, which opened in 2012, serves superlative tonkatsu — breaded, deep-fried pork cutlet — in a modest space that could easily be mistaken for a spartan sushi bar. Make your selection from the ticket machine, take a seat at the long white counter and wait for the chef to deliver bowls of white rice and miso soup, and a plate of crisp shredded cabbage with the juiciest panko-encrusted cutlet you can imagine (about 1,500 yen).
如果食物夠完美，誰還會在乎餐廳的裝修呢？低調的Maruyama Kippei餐廳在2012年開業，主打簡餐，這裏有最好吃的日式豬排——包裹麪包屑的炸豬排。簡樸的外觀很容易讓人以爲這是一家普通的壽司店。在點餐機上選擇食物，然後在白色櫃式長桌旁就坐，過一會兒，廚師就會送來米飯和味噌湯，還有一盤爽口的白菜絲，上面擺着你能想象到的最鮮嫩多汁的麪包屑炸豬排（約1500日元）。
7. Daytime Drama | 2 p.m.
7.白天也有好戲看：下午2:00
No foreign language skills are required to appreciate Kabuki, the classical Japanese theater rich with expressive performances, elaborate costumes and dramatic stage makeup. And there’s no better place to immerse yourself in this traditional art form than at the city’s premier theater, Kabuki-za. After a three-year closure, the grand theater reopened in 2013 in a newly built structure designed by the acclaimed architect Kengo Kuma. A full multi-act performance — typically lasting about four hours — is a major time commitment, but the box office now sells same-day, upper-balcony tickets for single acts (about 1,400 yen).
觀賞歌舞伎表演不需要懂日語，這種經典的日本戲劇以傳神的表演、華美的服飾和戲劇化的舞臺妝爲特色。要認真欣賞這一傳統藝術，沒什麼地方比東京最頂級的劇院歌舞伎座(Kabuki-za)更好的地方了。在關閉了三年之後，這個大劇院在2013年重新開放，全新的結構由廣受讚譽的建築師隈研吾(Kengo Kuma)設計。一場完整的多幕劇通常要四小時——可能對你來說有點長，不過現在售票處也出售單幕戲票，當日有效，座位在二樓包廂（約1400日元）。
8. Earlier Era | 5 p.m.
8. 尋訪舊東京：下午5:00
For a glimpse of an earlier, pre-neon-and-skyscraper version of the city, explore the narrow, winding streets of the Yanaka district. Along the way, seek out Scai the Bathhouse, a pioneering art gallery where metal lockers flanking the entrance of the centuries-old building hint at its previous life as a public bath. Then duck into the brick-and-wood house of Kayaba Coffee. Open since 1938, this cozy cafe serves green-tea lattes by day and, after 6 p.m., pours cocktails infused with ingredients like ginger or homemade plum liqueur.
若要一睹舊東京沒有霓虹燈和摩天大樓的模樣，就去谷中區(Yanaka)那些狹窄蜿蜒的街道里尋寶。先找一找SCAI The Bathhouse，這家前衛藝術畫廊所在的建築已有幾個世紀的歷史，入口側面的金屬儲物櫃暗示着它的前身是一家公共浴池。然後，去磚木結構的Kayaba咖啡館(Kayaba Coffee)小坐，這家愜意的咖啡館從1938年開始營業，在日間供應抹茶拿鐵，晚上6點後有用各式配方（比如姜）調製的雞尾酒或自制梅酒。
9. Bountiful Bowls | 7 p.m.
9. 天婦羅饕餮：晚上7:00
Japanese addresses often confuse more than clarify. So when trying to locate a top restaurant specializing in tendon — an oversized bowl of rice topped with tempura — just look for the lines waiting outside. There’s bound to be one alongside the old timbered house of Dote no Iseya, a tendon specialist since 1889 that has fittingly traditional décor: a few wooden tables, a small tatami-mat alcove and an ancient grandfather clock ticking in a corner. Try the excellent “Ro” bowl, which comes piled with crisp tempura of conger eel, squid, prawns and sweet pepper (1,900 yen). If you’re prepared to measure your wait in hours, head to Kaneko Hannosuke, where everyone is queuing for the kitchen’s only dish: outstanding tendon with generous portions of tempura including vegetables, prawns, eel and an oozy egg (950 yen).
日本的地址經常會把人搞糊塗，所以如果你想找一家“天丼”(tendon)做得最好的餐廳——就是大碗的天婦羅蓋飯——就看哪家門口排的隊最長就行了。比如在土手の伊勢屋(Dote no Iseya)那老式木屋的外面肯定會有一條長隊。這家餐廳從1889年起就專門做天丼，其傳統的裝飾風格也很貼切：幾張木製餐桌、一個小的榻榻米壁龕，角落裏還有個滴答作響的老式座鐘。可以嚐嚐絕佳的“Ro”飯，米飯上堆滿了鬆脆的各式天婦羅，有海鰻、魷魚、大蝦和甜椒（1900日元）。如果你不想等得太久，那就去金子半之助(Kaneko Hannosuke)，這裏只賣一種天丼，所有人排隊都是爲了它——天婦羅分量很足，有蔬菜、大蝦、鰻魚，還配一隻溫泉蛋（950日元）。
10. Water, Water Everywhere | 10 p.m.
10. 泡湯：晚上10:00
Tokyo can be overwhelming, but a late-night soak at Myojin no Yu, a spalike public bathhouse, is sure to melt away the stress of a chaotic day. The calming complex features a large bathing area complete with saunas, cypress-wood pools filled with natural spring water, cold-water baths and a series of outdoor tubs of varying sizes and temperatures surrounded by trees and greenery. Facilities are separated by gender and bathing suits are not permitted. Admission 1,200 yen.
東京令人目不暇接、暈頭轉向，但是在午夜將至時，在明神の湯(Myojin no Yu)裏泡一泡，定能掃除一天的疲憊。這個公共浴池很像溫泉浴場，在寧靜的建築羣裏有一大片沐浴區，包括桑拿、注滿天然溫泉的柏木浴池、冷水浴池，在樹木和綠植的環繞中，還有一系列各種尺寸和溫度的戶外浴盆。這裏男女設施分區，不允許穿浴衣。門票1200日元。
Sunday
星期日
11. Green Peace | 10 a.m.
11.綠蔭漫步：上午10:00
Swap out the city’s steel and glass for trees and grass during a morning stroll through the landscaped Hama-rikyu Gardens (admission, 300 yen). This peaceful park, framed by Shimbashi’s soaring skyscrapers, spans more than 60 acres of green meadows and placid ponds. If your visit to the city happens to coincide with the brief cherry blossom season, tack on a walk through Sumida Park in Asakusa. The delicate blossoms’ fleeting beauty blooms along the park’s riverside allée, which also offers unobstructed views of the futuristic 2,080-foot-tall Tokyo Skytree, currently the world’s tallest tower.
把目光從東京的鋼筋水泥移向大自然吧。早晨，在風景如畫的濱離宮恩賜庭園(Hama-rikyu Gardens)散步（門票300日元）。這個靜謐的公園嵌在新橋區的摩天大樓間，有超過60公頃綠蔭和靜如湖面的池塘。如果你來東京時正趕上短暫的櫻花季，可以去淺草區(Asakusa)的隅田公園(Sumida Park)走一走。精緻而嬌弱的櫻花沿公園的河畔小徑綻放，欣賞這稍縱即逝之美的同時，從那裏還能看到東京晴空塔(Tokyo Skytree)的全貌，這是目前世界最高的塔，高2080英尺（約634米）。
12. Coffee Queen | 2 p.m.
12. 咖啡女王：下午2:00
Even as the city pushes the limits of modernization, there remain charming spots where you can feel the nostalgic pull of the past. That’s evident at Café de L’Ambre, a classic kissaten (coffee shop) tucked on a back lane in Ginza since 1948. Take a seat at the curved wooden bar or on the maroon banquette and order a drink you’ll never find at Starbucks: the Blanc et Noir “Queen Amber,” served in a coupe glass with milk floating atop sweetened coffee. Or try a brew made with aged beans, like an extra-fine Colombian vintage from 1954. Either is a delicious reminder that there’s room for everything — new and old, traditional and trendy — even in just a portion of this exhilarating city.
儘管東京把現代化發揮到了極致，但仍有一些迷人的地方能勾起人的懷舊情結，比如琥珀咖啡(Café de L’Ambre)。這家傳統的咖啡館從1948年起就隱居在銀座的一條後巷裏。坐在弧形木製吧檯或紅褐色的長椅上，點一杯星巴克永遠不會有的飲品——名爲“琥珀女王”(“Queen Amber”)的黑白咖啡(the Blanc et Noir)，以冰激凌杯爲容器，加糖的咖啡上漂浮着牛奶。或嘗一嘗用陳年咖啡豆釀製的咖啡，比如1954年的哥倫比亞特優陳年咖啡豆。其實每一種都不錯——無論新舊，無論傳統還是現代——在這座令人欣喜的城市，即便只在這一隅，你也有很多選擇。
Lodging
住宿
Tokyo is home to some of the world’s most luxurious hotels, including the first urban outpost of the exclusive Aman Resorts, Aman Tokyo (1-5-6 Otemachi, Chiyoda-ku; ), which opened in the eastern Otemachi financial district in December. Occupying the top six floors of a soaring tower, the hotel features sweeping views – from the neighboring Imperial Gardens to Mount Fuji – in the restaurant, lounge and 84 elegant rooms and suites (from about 90,000 yen).
世界上幾家最奢華的酒店集團都在東京落了腳，包括安縵度假村旗下的第一家城市度假村安縵東京(Aman Tokyo)（千代田區大手町1-5-6；）。該酒店在2014年12月開業，位於大手町(Otemachi)金融區的東部。酒店佔據了一棟大廈的頂部六層，餐廳、酒廊，以及84間雅緻的客房和套房均可俯瞰東京全景——無論是附近的皇居，還是富士山，都一覽無餘（每晚90000日元起）。
Style and views can also be had for far fewer yen at the Park Hotel Tokyo (1-7-1 Higashi Shimbashi, Minato-ku; ), an art-filled hotel near Shimbashi station. The 25th-floor lobby faces the Tokyo Tower, and similarly spectacular scenes figure prominently in each of the 273 plush rooms (from 20,000 yen), some of which have been decorated by former artists-in-residence.
如果想以更實惠的價格同時享有格調和風景，東京花園酒店(Park Hotel Tokyo)（港區東新橋1-7-1；）是一個不錯的選擇。這是一家充滿藝術氣息的酒店，位於新橋站附近。酒店大堂位於25層，對面就是東京塔(Tokyo Tower)，273間豪華客房（每晚20000日元起）擁有同樣壯麗的景觀，其中一些房間還保留着前藝術家住戶的裝飾風格。
