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從T臺到店面 今冬服裝流行趨勢

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During the winter months in New York, the streets are crowded with people bundled in muted colors; sheathed in furs and heavy knits. But the shop windows that line the city’s most fashionable neighborhoods tell a different story, as retailers are already preparing for spring.

冬季裏的紐約,街上擁擠的人羣帶着柔和的色彩,人們都穿着皮草大衣和厚實的針織毛衣。但在紐約市最時尚的幾個社區當中,那些沿街排列的店鋪櫥窗卻在講述一個截然不同的故事,因爲這些服裝零售店已在準備春季的新款服飾了。

Fashion moves so quickly, it outpaces even this bustling city. As we trudge through the doldrums of winter, we can at least take refuge while shopping in boutiques and department stores where spring clothes already line the racks.

時尚潮流發展得如此迅速,步伐甚至超越了這座匆忙的城市。當我們在這樣清冷的冬日裏跋涉,至少能在女裝精品店和百貨商場裏購物避寒,那裏的貨架上,已經掛滿了春裝。

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So, what are the trends for next season to look out for in stores? There are three that seemed to top the list during the runway shows last September: Retro-inspired looks from the 1970’s; relaxed pieces with an active-wear influence; and finally a trend that means you will be able to wear your latest purchase right out of the store an into the cold: furs and skins are in for spring.

那麼,在商店裏都能看到哪些下一季的潮流呢?在已經過去的九月時裝秀期間,有三大潮流似乎高居首位:七十年代的復古風;帶有運動裝風格的休閒服飾;而最後一種潮流意味着,你將可以穿着新買的衣服直接走入商店外寒冷的天氣中,這就是春季款的皮草服飾。

Here is a look at what you may see in stores this winter, based on how these three trends appeared on the runway:

根據時裝秀上的這三大潮流,我們來看看今年冬天你能在服飾店裏看到些什麼吧:

Back to the ‘70s:

一.回到七十年代:

Cool Collars:

短風衣回潮:

The Barrymore collar is back. Both Burberry and Chanel updated the long, pointed collar once associated with disco-fever. At Burberry, as patent leather accents they gave denim jackets a pop of color. The exaggerated collars modernized blouses and polo shirts on the Chanel runway, showing that the long, tapering lapels are perfect for looking like a sophisticated lady or a disco-queen.

可以尋覓一下雙排扣和單排扣的前襟繫帶式短風衣,類似上世紀70年代私家偵探約翰·沙夫特(John Shaft)這個電影角色的着裝風格。普拉達(Prada)與古馳(Gucci)都推出了駝色皮質風衣,其誇張的扣子與冬季外套搭配起來,效果很好;即使氣溫升高,作外衣單穿也很理想。

En-Trenched:

拼接當道:

Look for double and single breasted belted trench coats, a-la-Shaft. Prada and Gucci both showed camel colored leather versions with exaggerated buttons that will be nice for layering with winter coats, and ideal as outerwear as the temperatures rise.

這種復古款式在秀場上有各種表現。在湯米·希爾費格(Tommy Hilfiger)與路易·威登(Louis Vuitton)的時裝秀上,拼接是一種有趣的錯位風格,模特們穿着條紋狀的皮質拼接迷你A字裙與晚禮服;而經過設計師裏卡多·提西(Ricardo Ticsi)爲紀梵希(Givenchy)所做的詮釋,這種風格又顯得尤其性感。你肯定能找到適合你風格的那一款。

Patchwork Please:

酷衣領:

This vintage look had range on the runway. It had a refreshingly playful twist at both Tommy Hilfiger and Louis Vuitton’s show, where models wore striped leather patched A-line mini skirts and dresses, but it had major sex appeal when interpreted by Ricardo Ticsi for Givenchy. You’ll be sure to find a version that suits your style.

巴利摩爾衣領(Barrymore collar)又回來了。巴寶莉(Burberry)與香奈兒(Chanel)都爲這款曾與迪斯科熱有關的尖角長衣領賦予了新的式樣。在巴寶莉的時裝秀上,這款衣領的漆皮樣式讓那些牛仔夾克衫多了一抹色彩;而在香奈兒的時裝秀上,這款誇張的衣領讓女士襯衫和polo衫很有現代感,顯示出這類長款錐形翻領能讓人看起來像個成熟女性,或迪斯科皇后。

Sporty for Spring:

二.春季運動款:

Mesh:

運動鞋:

Even evening wear is getting an athletic twist this season, so be on the look out for floor length dresses from Alexander Wang, who used sporty mesh panels to provide a peekaboo of skin.

跑鞋熱早在幾年前就開始了,而且,這股潮流在2015年還會更加強勁。所以,別把你去年春天穿的那款裝飾繁複的“Dior Fusion”跑鞋收起來。儘管王大仁沒有設計出一種搭配真正跑鞋的服裝款式,但他受到耐克喬丹鞋(Nike Air Jordan)啓發而設計的那些手袋,肯定會在熱愛時尚的都市人羣中大受歡迎。

Sophisticated Sweats:

運動褲也優雅:

Buy a pair of comfortable and low-slung slouchy trousers resembling jogging pants for this spring. A suede or leather pair like those shown on the Fendi runway can be worn now with boots, and paired with sandals when the weather warms. If a slimmer interpretation is more your style, look for more ballerina-esque pairs like those by Bottega Veneta.

今年春天,買一條類似慢跑運動褲的舒適低腰休閒褲吧。類似芬迪(Fendi)時裝發佈會上展示的那種絨面或皮質長褲,現在就可以配上靴子穿;等天氣變得暖和一些時,這款休閒褲還可以配上涼鞋穿。如果你更喜歡較爲苗條的款型,那不妨多看看那些芭蕾褲,類似寶緹嘉(Bottega Veneta)品牌推出的那些款式。

Sneakers:

網眼:

The sneaker craze began in earnest a couple of seasons ago, and is going strong for 2015, so don’t pack away your embellished “Dior Fusion” sneakers from last spring. Even though he didn’t pair a single look with actual sneakers, Alexander Wang’s Nike Air Jordan inspired handbags will surely be a hit with downtown fashion lovers.

這一季,即便是晚禮服也帶上了一些運動的感覺。所以,請留意王大仁(Alexander Wang)設計的拖地長裙,用華麗的網眼面料展現出一種若隱若現的效果。

Unexpected Fabrics:

三.意想不到的面料:

Feathers:

羽毛:

Feathers made a surprise appearance on several runways, but bewilderingly enough, they worked. Cocktail dresses covered in plumes may have staying power, but if you’re looking for a more subtle way to wear this look opt for accents instead of all over fluff.

羽毛面料在多場時裝發佈會上的表現都十分驚人,而令人困惑的是,其效果也都很好。覆蓋着羽狀物的宴會服飾可能依然是主流,但你如果想用更低調的方式穿着這種面料,就選擇帶有羽毛裝飾而不是全羽毛面料做的衣服吧。

Fur:

皮草:

Fur embellishments are a statement for spring that will carry you from now until summer begins. Look for ladylike fur lapels like those shown on the Miu Miu runway, or go for a funkier look with a cropped fur and denim combination.

皮草裝飾是一份春天的宣言,你可以從現在一直穿到初夏。看看女裝的皮草翻領吧,比如Miu Miu時裝秀上展示的那些;或者選擇一種更時髦的樣子——將一塊精緻裁剪的皮草與牛仔布結合的款式。

Suede:

小山羊皮:

We know that leather has become a year-round wardrobe staple, but suede is everywhere for spring. The soft texture is warm enough to wear right now, but suede outerwear in particular is perfect for bridging the period between heavy coats and lighter layers.

我們知道皮革已經成爲衣櫃裏一年四季的主打服飾,可小山羊皮做的衣服,將在這個春天裏隨處可見。小山羊皮這種柔軟的面料不但現在穿着足夠暖和,而且尤其適合作爲厚重外套與輕便外衣之間的過渡服飾。