從緬甸到意大利,一路走一路吃

To accompany our cover article on regional food specialties around France, we asked some food experts to weigh in with their tips for must-eats in other parts of the world. Following is a selection.

爲了配合本期以法國各地特色美食爲主題的封面文章，我們請教了一些美食家，請他們推薦世界其他地方不可錯過的美味。下面是幾條精選。

Also, share your favorite regional dishes in the comments section.

此外，您可以在評論區與大家分享你鍾愛的各地小吃。

Mohinga in Myanmar

緬甸的魚板面

Tender rice noodles in a slightly pungent yet delicate fish broth, dotted with chunks of green banana stem, may not be everyone's idea of breakfast food, but mohinga, a classic morning-time food in central and southern Myanmar, is a great way to start the day. It comes in many versions. In Yangon, formerly Rangoon, the broth is made aromatic with lemon grass, ginger and garlic. On the west coast, in Rakhine State, it's topped with flaked cooked fish and a dollop of chile paste.

柔軟的米粉浸在微辣卻美味的魚肉湯裏，點綴着幾塊綠色的香蕉莖，這就是魚板面。也許它並不是人人喜愛的早餐食品，但作爲緬甸中部與南部的經典早餐，的確是啓動一天的絕佳方式。魚板面有很多版本。在仰光，肉湯中要放入檸檬草、生薑和大蒜調味。在緬甸西海岸的若開邦，魚板面上要蓋一層熟魚片和一團辣醬。

Mohinga is sold by streetside vendors and in some teashops. Pick a place already busy with locals. The vendor will put a tangle of rice noodles in your bowl, pour over the hot broth, add a sprinkle of cilantro, a section of hard-cooked egg, some minced scallion greens and perhaps some slices of fish cake. You can then choose one or more deep-fried toppings.

魚板面在街邊小攤及茶館裏都可以買到。找一個已經坐滿了本地人的紅火攤位坐下，小吃攤老闆會在把一把米粉放進碗裏，倒上滾燙的魚湯，撒一把香菜、蔥花、半個全熟的水煮蛋，或者還會幾片炸魚餅。然後你可以選擇一種或幾種油炸的食品蓋在上面。

In Yangon you'll find busy mohinga stands along downtown Maha Bandoola Road, and along small side streets. My favorite is called Ou Yi, in a tree-lined yard by a side lane off Inya Road. The mohinga costs more than the usual streetside fare — the equivalent of $2.50 rather than $1. This is shocking to locals, but for travelers it's the best kind of bargain: the broth has a wonderful balance and freshness that is deeply satisfying. Ou Yi is open at 5:30 every morning. Get there before 9 a.m. — they tend to run out early.

在仰光，你會在鬧市區的華人街及小巷內發現許多繁忙的魚板麪攤位和店鋪。我最愛的那家是“藕藝”(音譯)，位於茵雅路(Inya Road)附近一條小巷內綠樹成行的院落裏。這裏的魚板面比街邊小攤上的通常貴一些。街邊一份只要1美元，而這裏要2.50美元，在本地人看來是天價，但在遊客眼中極其划算：肉湯鮮美可口，恰到好處，令人非常滿意。藕藝每天早上5：30開門。最好在上午9點之前去，這裏的店鋪開張都很早。

Far from Yangon, there is outstanding mohinga at the main market in Nyaung Shwe, near beautiful Inle Lake — but only every five days; "market day” rotates around the region. Head up the main aisle of the market building; just before you reach the end, you'll see to your right a huge wok full of tomato-tinged mohinga broth. Pull up a stool and tuck in. There's a layered perfume to the fish broth, a delicate blend of lemon grass, shallots, tomato acidity and something more (perhaps a secret local herb?) that sings on the tongue. You'll be back for more.

除了仰光，在美麗的茵萊湖(Inle Lake)附近，娘烏鎮(Nyaung Shwe)的大集市上亦有極好的魚板面，但這個集市五天才有一次。“趕集日”在這片地區各處輪轉。沿着集市大樓的主通道向前走，快到頭的時候，你會發現右手邊有一口巨大的鍋，裏面盛滿了番茄色的魚板面肉湯。拉過一張凳子，大快朵頤吧。魚湯的香味層次無窮，豐富微妙，混合着檸檬草、青蔥與西紅柿的酸甜，還有些別的味道（或許是本土的祕密草藥？），一起在舌尖上載歌載舞。你肯定會多次回來，享受這種美味。

Naomi Duguid, the author of "Burma: Rivers of Flavor.”

奈奧米·達貴德(Naomi Duguid)，《緬甸：香味的河流》(Burma: Rivers of Flavor)的作者。

Kibbe Nayyeh in Antelias, Lebanon

黎巴嫩山省(Antelias)的生肉餅

Kibbe, a subtly spiced mixture of minced lamb and bulgur wheat, can be found around the Levant, cooked in myriad ways. It can also be served raw, as kibbe nayyeh (nayyeh means raw in Arabic), often called the national dish of Lebanon. It's sometimes referred to as Arab steak tartare, although it is smoother and spicier — the meat is moistened with olive oil instead of egg yolk, and should ideally be pounded in a marble mortar with a heavy wooden pestle until it turns into a silky paste. I can still picture my Lebanese mother and grandmother sitting on low stools on either side of a beautiful large mortar taking turns to pound the lean chunks of lamb with a big wooden pestle.

吉布(kibbe)是一種用羊肉餡和小麥碎加豐富香料製成的食物，是黎凡特一帶的特色小吃，烹飪方法很多。有時候可以把生肉直接上桌，名叫生肉餅，或者叫“吉布納耶”（Kibbe Nayyeh；Nayyeh在阿拉伯語中意爲生肉），人們常常稱它爲黎巴嫩的國菜。有時候，吉布納耶指的是阿拉伯韃靼肉排，儘管會更爲滑嫩香辛——因爲裏面用來增加肉餡溼度的是橄欖油而不是蛋黃，理想的情況下，應當是把肉餡放在石臼內，用沉重的木杵反覆捶打敲擊，直到肉餡成爲絲滑的糊糊。一臺精美的大石臼，我的黎巴嫩母親和祖母分別坐在兩旁的矮凳上，輪流用大木捶打一塊塊精瘦的羊羔肉，這個畫面至今歷歷在目。

As you can imagine, this took quite some time and hardly anyone these days makes kibbe nayyeh by hand, least of all restaurants. But some, like Al-Halabi, a timeless restaurant in Antelias, a northern suburb of Beirut, manage to achieve the same smooth texture despite mincing the meat in a grinder. Its kibbe nayyeh is one of the best in town: as silky as the one I remember from my youth, with the same lovely pale pink color, a sure sign it is mixed just before it is served, with a little iced water added to keep the color and loosen the meat. Al-Halabi also uses a minimal amount of bulgur wheat, which allows for a meatier texture. And the seasoning is subtle, with enough spices to enhance the flavor of the lamb but not overwhelm it.

正如你想象的，這個過程非常耗時，因此現在幾乎沒人用純手工製作生肉餅了，尤其是餐館。但也有例外，比如山省貝魯特北郊有家不合時宜的艾爾哈拉比餐廳(Al-Halabi)，雖然用了研磨機來製作肉餡，但出產的生肉餅的質地與手工製成的一樣嫩滑。它的生肉餅是鎮裏最美味的：和我青春記憶中最香的肉餅一樣絲滑，有同樣可愛的淡粉色澤，見到這種色澤，你就可以確信它是做成之後立馬新鮮上桌的。還加了一點冰水用來維持色澤，同時讓肉餡鬆軟。艾爾哈拉比用的小麥碎也是最少的，小麥碎的作用增加肉的質感。調味料加得恰到好處，既能豐富羊肉的濃香，又不至於蓋過它本來的滋味。

ANISSA HELOU, the author of "Levant.”

阿尼莎·西露(Anissa Helou)，《黎凡特》(Levant)的作者。

Piti in Kars, Turkey

土耳其卡爾斯的燉羊肉(piti)

In Kars, a northeastern Turkish province where dairy and cattle ranching dominate, one local specialty stands out for its unlikely main ingredient: lamb. Piti, a stew of chickpeas, mutton and tomato in a broth flavored with sheep tail fat and sarikok, or dried turmeric, embodies the region's past as a Silk Road way station and, for four decades around the turn of the 20th century, a Russian territory. The dish originated in Azerbaijan, though piti there is sometimes flavored with saffron instead of turmeric. Tomato, a novelty in Turkey's remoter provinces until well into the 20th century, is probably a recent addition.

土耳其東北部省份卡爾斯的支柱產業是奶製品和畜牧業，這裏有一種特色食品因其主料脫穎而出——羊羔肉。這種特色美食就是燉羊肉(piti)，一種燉制食品，在湯汁中放入羊尾油和薑黃粉，加鷹嘴豆、羊肉和西紅柿一起燉。這道菜體現了此地作爲絲綢之路重鎮的歷史，而且，在20世紀轉折點前後，它有40年時間屬於俄羅斯的疆土。這道菜源於阿塞拜疆，只不過在那裏，燉肉料加的是藏紅花，而不是薑黃。至於西紅柿，土耳其一些邊遠省份直到20世紀才引進這種蔬菜，因此，燉羊肉中的西紅柿可能是近年來才增加的。

Piti is baked in small single-serving vessels — metal cups in Kars and clay dishes in Azerbaijan — and is served with broth strained from the meat and chickpeas. In Kars it is poured over torn strips of lavash mounded in a shallow bowl. Absorbing the liquid, the bread becomes a dumpling-like cloud redolent of meat juices, with a slight musty-bitter edge from the turmeric. Some diners make it a one-dish meal by placing meat and chickpeas on top of the lavash and mashing the legumes into the bread, while others eat the two side by side. Though the hearty dish is served year-round it's especially suited to Kars's notoriously long and harsh winters.

燉羊肉盛在單獨的小容器（在卡爾斯是搪瓷茶缸，在阿塞拜疆則是瓷盤）中，按份烹製。端上餐桌時，盛些加有鷹嘴豆的肉湯澆在上面。在卡爾斯，是將麪餅撕成片，堆在空碗裏，然後澆上肉湯。麪餅吸收肉湯之後會膨脹成餃子形狀的饃塊，散發出肉汁的濃香，薑黃帶來一絲苦澀而陳舊的口感。有些顧客會把肉塊與鷹嘴豆放在饃塊上面，將豆子壓到泡饃裏，這樣它就成了一道菜。還有一些顧客喜歡將這兩樣食品分別食用。儘管這種豐盛的美味全年都有供應，但它尤其適合卡爾斯漫長而凜冽的寒冬。

Kristal Lokantasi is one of the last restaurants in the drowsy provincial capital (also called Kars) to serve piti. Tahsin Kaya, the owner, said that his version, available for lunch only, is prepared using the same recipe as when his father opened the establishment, in a storefront down the street, over 50 years earlier. It sells out daily, even in summer, when temperatures can hit the 80s.

洛坎塔西餐廳是這座乏味的省會城市（卡爾斯省的省會，名字也叫卡爾斯）中碩果僅存的仍可烹製燉羊肉的幾家飯館之一。老闆塔辛·卡雅(Tahsin Kaya)說這裏只有午餐才供應燉羊肉，配方與他父親50年前開店時完全相同。當年，它只是街邊的一個小門店。該店的燉羊肉每天都供不應求，哪怕是氣溫80華氏度以上的盛夏時節。

ROBYN ECKHARDT, writer and blogger, EatingAsia.

羅賓·艾克哈特(Robyn Eckhardt)，美食亞洲(EatingAsia)的作者與博主。

Tlacoyos in Mexico City

墨西哥城的脆皮餡餅(tlacoyo)

People have been eating tlacoyos — masa patties stuffed with either refried beans, a salty, spreadable cheese called requesón, or mashed fava beans — in one form or another since pre-Hispanic times, and they are still sold at sidewalk stands across Mexico City. Female vendors hand-pat the corn dough into the shape of a flattened football and then cook the patties until crisp and freckled on both sides, often at charcoal grills that sit inches from their laps. The toppings, though, push tlacoyos into the upper echelon of Mexico street food: cooked cactus strips, fresh onion and cilantro and a spoonful of salsa.

從前西班牙時代開始，人們就開始吃脆皮餡餅，模樣雖然各異，但直到今天，墨西哥城的路邊攤仍在兜售。麪皮中間填塞的要麼是炸豆泥，一種名叫雷卻桑(requesón)的易於塗抹的鹹味奶酪，要麼是蠶豆泥。小吃攤老闆娘用手把玉米麪團拍成漏氣足球的模樣，然後將這團生面餅放在幾英寸外的木炭烤架上烤至焦脆，兩面都佈滿均勻的斑點。可是讓脆皮餡餅在墨西哥美食街獨佔鰲頭的，是其中的餡料：煮熟的仙人果絲、新鮮的洋蔥、香菜和一勺莎莎辣醬。

My favorite stand is run by Rosa Pe?a Sotres, who typically wears her gray hair in a braid. To find her, you get off at Metro Salto del Agua and head north on bustling Calle López. Her stand sits near Calle Delicias, just before the carnitas stand with the big clay pots. Ms. Pe?a Sotres has made tlacoyos for decades (her mother made them before her) and her skill comes across in each bite. The blue corn masa, which she prepares herself, is fluffy and airy; the fava beans add moisture and a nutty sweetness. When she asks, "Con todo?" the answer for me is always yes.

我最愛的攤位是羅莎·佩納·索翠思(Rosa Pe?a Sotres)開的，她經常把灰色的長髮編成辮子。如果你想找她，需要在索托戴爾阿瓜(Salto del Agua)地鐵站下車，向南沿着熙熙攘攘的洛佩茲大街(Calle López)直走。她的攤位就在德莉希亞大街(Calle Delicias)附近，下一個攤位賣的是卡尼特斯玉米卷，有幾個大陶罐。佩納·索翠思女士製作脆皮餡餅已經好幾十年了（過去是她的母親在做），每嘗一口，你都能感受到她高妙的手藝。揉好備用的藍色玉米麪團鬆軟多孔，裏面的蠶豆爲其增添了一份潤澤的口感與堅果的甘甜。每當她問：“還要吃？”我的回答永遠是“對”。

I loved her tlacoyos so much that I asked her if she accepted students. Soon afterward I found myself in the spotless patio of her house, in a nearby town. She showed me how she grinds her beans on a ground stonetool called a metate — brushing the stone cylinder against the base with sharp, quick motions — and the correct way to place the tlacoyos on the grill, first in the center, then off to the edges. After making a few dozen tlacoyos, my feet and back hurt. Ms. Pe?a Sotres had barely broken a sweat.

她的脆皮餡餅我實在太喜歡了，就問她能不能收我爲徒。片刻之後，我就來到了附近小鎮裏她家一塵不染的露臺上。她爲我演示怎樣用一種叫做凹面磨盤的石具磨豆子——用快速而敏銳的動作將石柱頂在基底上摩擦，以及怎樣把脆皮餡餅放在烤架上才正確——首先放在中間，然後慢慢向四邊鋪開。做了幾十個脆皮餡餅之後，我的雙足和背部開始隱隱作痛，佩納·索翠思女士卻泰然自若，幾乎一滴汗水都沒出。

LESLEY TELLEZ, writer and blogger, The Mija Chronicles.

萊斯利·泰勒茲(Lwsley Tellez) ，美子編年史 (The Mija Chronicles)網站的作者與博主。

Porchetta in Umbria, Italy

意大利翁布里亞的脆皮烤豬肉

In the ancient town of Bevagna in central Umbria, down a narrow and winding street, is a magnificent butcher shop called Macelleria Tagliavento. Head through the modest and dimly lit space, perfumed by cured meats hanging overhead, and you will find a delicatessen case filled with yet more meat. Past that, perched on a ledge, is a particularly magnificent porchetta. I grew up mostly around central Italy, and this version is the type I remember loving before industrialized methods took over.

在翁布里亞中部的貝瓦尼納古城，沿着一條狹窄而曲折的街道向前走，就會看到一家氣派的肉店，名叫塔利亞文託肉店(Macelleria Tagliavento)。樸素幽暗的店內掛滿了醃肉，穿過這香濃的氣息，你會發現一個熟食櫃檯，裏面擺放的肉更多。走過櫃檯，壁架上擺着一盤十分華麗的脆皮烤豬肉。我的童年與少年基本是在意大利中部度過，這種烤肉的方式正是我過去深愛的那種，可惜後來都被工業文明取代了。

Porchetta — a deconstructed whole pig, gutted and spiced, then stuffed, tied and roasted, with layers of meat, fat, stuffing and skin — originated in the area around Rome and in the former Vatican states. These days, it's available all over Italy, including in Bevagna, in the heart of one of the most famous pork-curing regions of Italy. At Macelleria Tagliavento, the skin, glazed and crispy, covers perfectly moist flesh; traditional organ meats, wild fennel pollen, garlic, rosemary and lots of salt and pepper hide inside. The head is left attached for extra-dramatic presentation. It's usually sold out by noon.

脆皮烤豬肉是將一隻整豬拆散，去掉內臟，加上香料醃製，然後填上餡料，綁在一起烤制而成，瘦肉、肥肉、餡料和脆皮層次分明。這種烤法發源於羅馬一帶與前梵蒂岡各州。而今，意大利各地都可烹飪這種菜餚，包括貝瓦尼亞，意大利名氣最大的養豬區的中心地帶。塔利亞文託肉店的烤豬肉脆皮晶瑩酥脆，恰到好處地蓋住了鮮嫩多汁的瘦肉；藏在裏面的則是傳統的有機瘦肉、野生茴香粉、大蒜、迷迭香和大量的鹽和胡椒。豬頭也留了下來，展示時顯得格外生動。這份烤豬肉一般不到中午就能賣出去。

Marco Biagetti and Rosita Cariani, the owners, cut the porchetta by hand and use thick slices from a great round loaf of artisanal bread. After wrapping the sandwich in a little butcher paper, they will send you on your way into the street, blinking in the bright light.

店主馬可·比亞蓋提(Marco Biagetti)與羅西塔·卡瑞阿尼(Rosita Cariani)親手切下肉片，用厚厚的麪包片夾起來。那是用一大塊工藝圓麪包切成的。他們用一小塊包肉紙把這份三明治包好遞給你，目送着你走進大街，他們的眼睛仍在明亮的燈光下閃閃發光。

SARA JENKINS, the chef at Porsena and Porchetta in New York.

莎拉·詹金斯(Sara Jenkins)，紐約波西那與波爾凱塔餐廳(Porsena and Porchetta)的主廚。