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从T台到店面 今冬服装流行趋势

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During the winter months in New York, the streets are crowded with people bundled in muted colors; sheathed in furs and heavy knits. But the shop windows that line the city’s most fashionable neighborhoods tell a different story, as retailers are already preparing for spring.

冬季里的纽约,街上拥挤的人群带着柔和的色彩,人们都穿着皮草大衣和厚实的针织毛衣。但在纽约市最时尚的几个社区当中,那些沿街排列的店铺橱窗却在讲述一个截然不同的故事,因为这些服装零售店已在准备春季的新款服饰了。

Fashion moves so quickly, it outpaces even this bustling city. As we trudge through the doldrums of winter, we can at least take refuge while shopping in boutiques and department stores where spring clothes already line the racks.

时尚潮流发展得如此迅速,步伐甚至超越了这座匆忙的城市。当我们在这样清冷的冬日里跋涉,至少能在女装精品店和百货商场里购物避寒,那里的货架上,已经挂满了春装。

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So, what are the trends for next season to look out for in stores? There are three that seemed to top the list during the runway shows last September: Retro-inspired looks from the 1970’s; relaxed pieces with an active-wear influence; and finally a trend that means you will be able to wear your latest purchase right out of the store an into the cold: furs and skins are in for spring.

那么,在商店里都能看到哪些下一季的潮流呢?在已经过去的九月时装秀期间,有三大潮流似乎高居首位:七十年代的复古风;带有运动装风格的休闲服饰;而最后一种潮流意味着,你将可以穿着新买的衣服直接走入商店外寒冷的天气中,这就是春季款的皮草服饰。

Here is a look at what you may see in stores this winter, based on how these three trends appeared on the runway:

根据时装秀上的这三大潮流,我们来看看今年冬天你能在服饰店里看到些什么吧:

Back to the ‘70s:

一.回到七十年代:

Cool Collars:

短风衣回潮:

The Barrymore collar is back. Both Burberry and Chanel updated the long, pointed collar once associated with disco-fever. At Burberry, as patent leather accents they gave denim jackets a pop of color. The exaggerated collars modernized blouses and polo shirts on the Chanel runway, showing that the long, tapering lapels are perfect for looking like a sophisticated lady or a disco-queen.

可以寻觅一下双排扣和单排扣的前襟系带式短风衣,类似上世纪70年代私家侦探约翰·沙夫特(John Shaft)这个电影角色的着装风格。普拉达(Prada)与古驰(Gucci)都推出了驼色皮质风衣,其夸张的扣子与冬季外套搭配起来,效果很好;即使气温升高,作外衣单穿也很理想。

En-Trenched:

拼接当道:

Look for double and single breasted belted trench coats, a-la-Shaft. Prada and Gucci both showed camel colored leather versions with exaggerated buttons that will be nice for layering with winter coats, and ideal as outerwear as the temperatures rise.

这种复古款式在秀场上有各种表现。在汤米·希尔费格(Tommy Hilfiger)与路易·威登(Louis Vuitton)的时装秀上,拼接是一种有趣的错位风格,模特们穿着条纹状的皮质拼接迷你A字裙与晚礼服;而经过设计师里卡多·提西(Ricardo Ticsi)为纪梵希(Givenchy)所做的诠释,这种风格又显得尤其性感。你肯定能找到适合你风格的那一款。

Patchwork Please:

酷衣领:

This vintage look had range on the runway. It had a refreshingly playful twist at both Tommy Hilfiger and Louis Vuitton’s show, where models wore striped leather patched A-line mini skirts and dresses, but it had major sex appeal when interpreted by Ricardo Ticsi for Givenchy. You’ll be sure to find a version that suits your style.

巴利摩尔衣领(Barrymore collar)又回来了。巴宝莉(Burberry)与香奈儿(Chanel)都为这款曾与迪斯科热有关的尖角长衣领赋予了新的式样。在巴宝莉的时装秀上,这款衣领的漆皮样式让那些牛仔夹克衫多了一抹色彩;而在香奈儿的时装秀上,这款夸张的衣领让女士衬衫和polo衫很有现代感,显示出这类长款锥形翻领能让人看起来像个成熟女性,或迪斯科皇后。

Sporty for Spring:

二.春季运动款:

Mesh:

运动鞋:

Even evening wear is getting an athletic twist this season, so be on the look out for floor length dresses from Alexander Wang, who used sporty mesh panels to provide a peekaboo of skin.

跑鞋热早在几年前就开始了,而且,这股潮流在2015年还会更加强劲。所以,别把你去年春天穿的那款装饰繁复的“Dior Fusion”跑鞋收起来。尽管王大仁没有设计出一种搭配真正跑鞋的服装款式,但他受到耐克乔丹鞋(Nike Air Jordan)启发而设计的那些手袋,肯定会在热爱时尚的都市人群中大受欢迎。

Sophisticated Sweats:

运动裤也优雅:

Buy a pair of comfortable and low-slung slouchy trousers resembling jogging pants for this spring. A suede or leather pair like those shown on the Fendi runway can be worn now with boots, and paired with sandals when the weather warms. If a slimmer interpretation is more your style, look for more ballerina-esque pairs like those by Bottega Veneta.

今年春天,买一条类似慢跑运动裤的舒适低腰休闲裤吧。类似芬迪(Fendi)时装发布会上展示的那种绒面或皮质长裤,现在就可以配上靴子穿;等天气变得暖和一些时,这款休闲裤还可以配上凉鞋穿。如果你更喜欢较为苗条的款型,那不妨多看看那些芭蕾裤,类似宝缇嘉(Bottega Veneta)品牌推出的那些款式。

Sneakers:

网眼:

The sneaker craze began in earnest a couple of seasons ago, and is going strong for 2015, so don’t pack away your embellished “Dior Fusion” sneakers from last spring. Even though he didn’t pair a single look with actual sneakers, Alexander Wang’s Nike Air Jordan inspired handbags will surely be a hit with downtown fashion lovers.

这一季,即便是晚礼服也带上了一些运动的感觉。所以,请留意王大仁(Alexander Wang)设计的拖地长裙,用华丽的网眼面料展现出一种若隐若现的效果。

Unexpected Fabrics:

三.意想不到的面料:

Feathers:

羽毛:

Feathers made a surprise appearance on several runways, but bewilderingly enough, they worked. Cocktail dresses covered in plumes may have staying power, but if you’re looking for a more subtle way to wear this look opt for accents instead of all over fluff.

羽毛面料在多场时装发布会上的表现都十分惊人,而令人困惑的是,其效果也都很好。覆盖着羽状物的宴会服饰可能依然是主流,但你如果想用更低调的方式穿着这种面料,就选择带有羽毛装饰而不是全羽毛面料做的衣服吧。

Fur:

皮草:

Fur embellishments are a statement for spring that will carry you from now until summer begins. Look for ladylike fur lapels like those shown on the Miu Miu runway, or go for a funkier look with a cropped fur and denim combination.

皮草装饰是一份春天的宣言,你可以从现在一直穿到初夏。看看女装的皮草翻领吧,比如Miu Miu时装秀上展示的那些;或者选择一种更时髦的样子——将一块精致裁剪的皮草与牛仔布结合的款式。

Suede:

小山羊皮:

We know that leather has become a year-round wardrobe staple, but suede is everywhere for spring. The soft texture is warm enough to wear right now, but suede outerwear in particular is perfect for bridging the period between heavy coats and lighter layers.

我们知道皮革已经成为衣柜里一年四季的主打服饰,可小山羊皮做的衣服,将在这个春天里随处可见。小山羊皮这种柔软的面料不但现在穿着足够暖和,而且尤其适合作为厚重外套与轻便外衣之间的过渡服饰。