爲什麼在炒蛋中放牛奶大錯特錯?

We need to talk about scrambled eggs. Those plump, silky things so inviting on top of toast. You'll need some tomorrow morning. A lot of people put milk in their scrambled eggs. Ask someone near you. They probably do it.

我們該聊一聊炒雞蛋了。這種飽滿柔滑的食物放在吐司上是在太誘人了。或許，你明早需要來一點？很多人會在炒雞蛋裏倒入牛奶。問問你身邊有沒有人這樣做吧，或許有哦。

In a recent poll on a BuzzFeed article about egg opinions, more than 60 per cent said they add milk when cooking the dish. Doing so "makes scrambled eggs creamier," apparently. The thing is, according to chefs, adding milk is slippery and tragic. Never has the culinary sentiment, "Scrambled eggs are easy to make, but difficult to do well," sounded truer.

最近BuzzFeed文章有關雞蛋的民意調查中，60%的人稱他們會在炒雞蛋的時候放入牛奶。顯然，這樣做"會使炒雞蛋更有奶味。"問題是，大廚表示，炒雞蛋加奶會使這道菜更滑、同時也是一場災難。這不帶任何烹飪情緒，"炒雞蛋很好做，但也很難做好，"這句話似乎更貼合實際。

Before we go any further, let's remember that food is a matter of taste and, frankly, you can do whatever you like. They're your eggs, after all. But it was interesting to learn that so many people add milk to their mixture. Surely you just melt lots of butter in a saucepan and cook the eggs on a low(ish) heat, stirring frequently, so that they can clump together.

進一步探討之前，請記住食物是關乎味道的，坦率地說，你想怎麼做都行。畢竟它們是你的蛋。但知道有那麼多人在炒雞蛋時加奶也是件趣聞。當然，你會在平底鍋中融化一大塊黃油，然後在低熱的狀態下炒雞蛋，不斷翻炒，這樣它們就會團聚到一起。

Afterwards, season with lots of salt and pepper, and maybe some chives, and then you're sat in front of a smooth, rich, slightly runny mountain of gold like an excited hobbit on a hot day.

之後，放點鹽和胡椒粉，還可以放點韭菜，然後你就可以坐着享受一份滑滑的堆成小山狀的金黃色炒雞蛋啦，就像炎日下興奮的霍比特人一樣。

But what do chefs say?

但大廚是怎麼說的？

We asked some about their scrambled eggs. Dan Joines, who runs several award-winning restaurants in London, told me: "Never add milk to your scrambled eggs - it dilutes the flavour and makes them more likely to turn out rubbery."

我們詢問他們是怎麼做炒雞蛋的。Dan Joines在倫敦經營數家獲獎餐廳，他告訴我："千萬別在炒雞蛋中加牛奶--它會稀釋雞蛋的味道、使其嚐起來更像橡膠味。"

"It's always butter for me. Make sure your butter is golden, but not brown, before you put your eggs in. Keep stirring on a medium to low heat. Keep them moving and folding with a spatula until slightly runny, but bound together."

"我總是用黃油炒。倒入雞蛋前，確保你的黃油是金黃色而非棕色的。不斷的攪拌，從中火調至低火。不斷的攪拌，直到雞蛋融合在一起，還有些微蛋液在流淌，然後就用鏟子將它翻面。"

And Luke Selby, chef at the much lauded Hide restaurant in London, agreed: "Putting milk in your scrambled eggs is a cardinal sin! It just makes them too wet, like school dinners."

倫敦著名餐廳--Hide餐廳--的主廚Luke Selby同意這個觀點："炒雞蛋加奶着實罪惡！只會讓雞蛋水水的、像學校的菜。"

Not so appetising

沒那麼美味

Food writer Rachel Phipps said: "While putting milk in your scrambled eggs may make them bigger, they become pretty flavourless."

美食作家Rachel Phipps說道："雖然在炒雞蛋中加奶可能會讓雞蛋更大，但也會使其變得無味。"