經典款風衣又回來了 A New Life for the Classic Trench Coat

Though the trench coat was originally designed to protect military officers against rain and wind, nowadays it is as varied as the diverse cast of characters known to wear it, on screen and off.

雖然風衣最初的設計是爲了給軍官們擋風遮雨，但是如今，它和銀幕內外穿着它的各色人物一樣多種多樣。

Think of John Cusack standing on the lawn, forlorn, with a boombox held high above his head in “Say Anything”; or Humphrey Bogart on a tarmac in the final scenes of “Casablanca”; or Prince performing “Purple Rain” in his custom purple trench coat during the climax of the film of the same name; or almost any actor in just about any film noir or television crime drama, from “Out of the Past” to “Law and Order: Special Victims Unit.”

在《情到深處》(Say Anything)中，約翰·庫薩克(John Cusack)絕望地站在草坪上，把錄音機高高舉過頭頂；在《卡薩布蘭卡》(Casablanca)的最後一幕中，漢弗萊·博加特(Humphrey Bogart)站在飛機跑道上；在《紫雨》(Purple Rain)的高潮部分，王子(Prince)身穿定製的紫色風衣演唱《紫雨》這首歌；還有黑色電影和犯罪電視劇中的幾乎每位男演員，從《漩渦之外》(Out of the Past)到《法律與秩序：特殊受害者》(Law and Order: Special Victims Unit)。

Such moments in pop-culture history present us with men who wear this timeless garment when they are faced with difficult tasks or find themselves in a state of emotional turmoil. The trench coat seems to serve as a kind of armor. On the city streets, on any given day in autumn, you can see it on anyone from a Wall Street banker to a Brooklyn artist.

在流行文化歷史上的這些時刻，當男人們面臨艱難任務或者感情波動時，都會穿上這種永不過時的服裝。風衣似乎是一種盔甲。在秋季的任何一天，在城市的大街上，你都能看到從華爾街的銀行家到布魯克林的藝術家都穿着它。

“I believe the bridge between the downtown, young urban aesthetic and the tailored, business one is our outerwear,” said Ilan Chétrite, the men’s designer for the French brand Sandro, which offers a long trench coat in speckled wool. “I wanted this collection to capture a broad spectrum of the city’s archetypes: the musician, the young businessman, even the chauffeur.”

“我認爲，我們的外套將市中心年輕人和穿着考究的商務人士的審美聯繫了起來，”法國品牌桑德羅(Sandro)的男裝設計師伊蘭·謝特里特(Ilan Chétrite)說。該品牌推出了用雜色羊毛面料做成的長款風衣。“我想讓這個系列反映出這座城市各種類型的男人：音樂人、年輕商人，甚至包括專職司機。”

The adaptability of a trench coat — which seems appropriate for anyone’s wardrobe — is amplified this season. Like the oversize version from Sandro, others by Salvatore Ferragamo, Hermès and Lemaire offer similarly beautiful, tentlike constructions.

風衣似乎適合每個人的衣櫥，它的強大適應性在這一季得到突顯。和桑德羅的超大款一樣，菲拉格慕(Salvatore Ferragamo)、愛馬仕(Hermès)和Lemaire也推出了大同小異的、帥氣的帳篷狀結構風衣。

At recent runway shows, Prada, Maison Margiela and Lanvin presented trimmer options, in nylon or leather instead of the traditional gabardine invented by Thomas Burberry in 1879. These trenches have a more tailored look, suggestive of the garment’s military origins.

在近期的秀臺上，普拉達(Prada)、馬丁·馬吉拉時裝屋(Maison Margiela)和朗萬(Lanvin)推出了微調版風衣，用尼龍或皮料代替傳統的華達呢，後面這種面料是托馬斯·博柏利(Thomas Burberry)1879年發明的。這些風衣更加講究裁剪，充分表現這種服裝的軍裝起源。

In choosing trousers to go with a trench coat, embrace the play on proportion. You can go big: long billowing pants with an equally exaggerated coat. Or stay fitted: slim trousers with a tailored coat. Or mix it up, as suggested by Mr. Chétrite.

在選擇跟風衣搭配的褲子時，你可以隨意選擇比例。你可以選擇寬鬆的：用空蕩蕩的長褲搭配同樣誇張的風衣；也可以選擇合身的：用修身的褲子搭配考究的外衣。或者如謝特里特建議的那樣，混搭起來。

“Pairing a long oversize trench coat with some high-waisted, cropped suit trouser perfectly translates this idea of contrast,” he said. “It helps to express the idea of a nonconformist man.”

“把超大長風衣與高腰八分西裝褲搭配起來，就能完美表現出對比的概念，”他說，“它有助於傳達不墨守成規的男人形象。”