法國辯論立法規定模特最低體重
PARIS — France, which often seems to have style and elegance written into its genetic code, is again confronting one of the dark sides of fashion: the glamorization of too-thin women.
巴黎——時常被認爲骨子裏透着時尚和優雅的法國，再次要面對時尚領域的一個黑暗面：對過於纖瘦的女性的美化。The French Parliament is debating legislation that would effectively set minimum weights for women and girls to work as models, a step that supporters of the bill say is necessary to combat the persistence of anorexia.
法國議會正在對一個提案進行討論。該提案將對以模特爲職業的女性的最低體重進行切實的規定；法案的支持者稱，要和持續存在的厭食症狀況作鬥爭，這樣的舉措是有必要的。
If it becomes law — it is backed by President François Hollande’s Socialist government — modeling agencies and fashion houses that employ models whose body mass index measurements do not meet minimum standards would face criminal penalties.
倘若它能成爲法律——法國總統弗朗索瓦·奧朗德(Francois Hollande)所屬的社會黨政府對其表示支持，模特經紀和時尚公司就不能聘用體重指數不符合最低標準的模特，否則將面臨刑事處罰。
Israel already bans the use of underweight and underage models, while other countries, including Italy and Spain, have weighed legislation similar to the one under consideration in France but for now continue to rely on voluntary pacts with the fashion industry.
以色列已經禁止使用體重不達標的模特和未成年模特，而包括意大利和西班牙在內的其他國家，雖然擁有與法國正在考慮的法規相似的體重法案，但目前仍然依賴與時尚行業之間的自願協定。If France approves the legislation, it would almost certainly raise the debate to a new level, especially in Paris, the spiritual capital of the fashion world. An effort to pass similar provisions in 2008 failed after heavy criticism from the fashion industry.
如果法國批准該法案，幾乎肯定會把討論提升到一個新層次，尤其是在巴黎——時尚界的精神之都。2008年，由於遭到時尚行業的猛烈抨擊，一項相似的提案未能得到通過。“We can’t resolve it with a law but we can begin a public health policy to prevent and protect and limit the number of those suffering from anorexia,” said Olivier Véran, a neurologist and a member of the National Assembly, the lower house of Parliament.
神經學家、法國下議院國民議會(National Assembly)議員奧利維耶·韋朗(Olivier Véran)說，“法律解決不了這個問題，但我們可以推出一項公共健康政策來預防厭食症，爲這些人提供保護，並限制厭食症患者的人數。”He is the author of the anti-anorexia provision, which is part of a comprehensive health law being debated in the National Assembly. He estimated that 30,000 to 40,000 people in France suffer from anorexia.
他是反厭食法規的起草者，這項規定是國民議會正在討論的全面健康法律的部分內容。據他估計，法國有3至4萬人患有厭食症。The proposed legislation would use as its base internationally accepted body mass index standards to determine whether a model was too thin and would set criminal penalties for hiring models who fell below the standards determined by the law. The index suggests that a woman who is 5 feet 7 inches tall should weigh at least 120 pounds. But the final legal standards would be determined by the French health authorities, who could adjust them for factors such as bone size.
這項提案將以國際公認的體重指數標準來確定模特是否過於單薄，如果僱傭體重不符合法律標準的模特，還將接受一定的刑事處罰。根據這個指數，身高5英尺7英寸（約合170釐米）的女性的體重至少應該爲120磅（約合54.5公斤）。但最後的法律標準還將由法國衛生部門決定，該部門可以根據骨骼大小等因素對標準進行調整。Violators would have to pay a fine of about $83,000 and serve as many as six months in prison.
違規者要支付大約8.3萬美元的罰款，最高可判6個月徒刑。The struggle over the appearance and health of fashion models is hardly a new one. It became more public in 2006 after the deaths of two models, a Brazilian and a Uruguayan, which set off a spate of voluntary standards in the industry and the effort in some places, including New York, to use healthier looking models.
有關時裝模特外形與健康的爭論已經不算新鮮事。2006年一名巴西模特和一名烏拉圭模特死亡後，這一問題變得更加公開。該事件促使業界採用一系列自願性標準，促使紐約等地開始僱傭看起來比較健康的模特。The death in 2010 of a French model and actress, Isabelle Caro, who at one point weighed just 55 pounds, fueled further calls for steps to address anorexia.
2010年，法國模特兼演員伊莎貝爾·卡羅(Isabelle Caro)的去世進一步推動人們要求採取舉措，解決厭食症問題。卡羅一度只有55磅重。So far the fashion industry has opposed legislation to address the issue, although a number of designers have spoken out in favor of using “healthy models” and promoting healthful lifestyles.
到目前爲止，時尚界仍然反對通過立法解決該問題，儘管很多設計師明確表示支持僱傭“健康模特”，推廣健康的生活方式。There is no official database of models’ heights and weights, and with regulations against using underweight models on the rise, most models and agencies are close-mouthed about the subject. Many in the industry say, however, that a number of the top models would likely weigh less than the healthy threshold set by the body mass index of about 18 or 18.5.
目前還不存在有關模特身高及體重的官方數據庫，隨着禁止僱傭體重不足的模特的規定越來越多，大多數模特和經紀公司對該話題保持沉默。然而，很多業界人士表示，一些頂級模特可能沒有達到體質指數18或18.5的健康臨界值。Widely publicized figures for weights of models like Kate Moss at the height of her fashion career indicate she would have had a body mass index of 15 to 16, which was similar to that of Twiggy, a 1960s supermodel. More recent models, such as Naomi Campbell and Gisele Bündchen, are reported to have body mass indexes between 16 and 17. A body mass index of less than 18 does not necessarily mean that someone has an eating disorder.
有一些模特的體重數據被廣泛宣傳，比如數據顯示，凱特·摩絲(Kate Moss)在事業高峯期的體質指數爲15到16，水平與20世紀60年代的超模崔姬(Twiggy)差不多。在她之後的納奧米·坎貝爾(Naomi Campbell)、吉賽爾·邦臣(Gisele Bündchen)等模特的體質指數在16到17之間。體質指數低於18並不一定意味着存在飲食紊亂問題。The National Union of Modeling Agencies in France issued a statement saying it was complying with a voluntary charter that discourages the use of anorexic models and that was approved by the government in 2008. The statement also said that an appropriate minimum weight for models had yet to be determined.
法國全國模特經紀公司聯盟(The National Union of Modeling Agencies)發表聲明稱，該聯盟遵照一項自願性規定，不會僱傭存在厭食症問題的模特，該規定於2008年獲得政府批准。該聲明還表示，模特的最低體重標準尚未確定。“Anorexia is a mental illness that cannot be fought by a ‘arithmomania,’ ” the union’s statement said. It called on the fashion world to take a uniform approach internationally and deplored the use of “selectively repressive” measures, referring to those now under consideration.
該聯盟發表聲明稱，“厭食症是一種精神疾病，靠‘死摳數據’是無法與之對抗的。”該聯盟號召時尚界在國際上採取統一方法，對使用“選擇性壓制”舉措表示譴責，這裏指的就是目前正在考慮之中的提案。Calls to 10 modeling agencies with offices in Paris found none willing to respond to questions on the issue.
記者給10家模特經紀公司的巴黎辦公室打電話，沒人願意就該問題作出迴應。
