漲姿勢:泳衣百年進化史

(CNN)A new London exhibition is looking back on the history of the humble swimsuit.

（CNN）一個倫敦新開的展會回溯了泳衣的歷史。

Riviera Style: Resort & Swimwear since 1900, now on at the Fashion and Textile Museum in London, charts the journey from the knee-length swimming dresses of yesteryear to the ubiquitous string bikinis of today through archival garments and images.

裏維埃拉風格：1900年代的度假勝地和泳衣款式，現在在倫敦的時裝和紡織品博物館，一系列圖表通過服裝檔案和影像資料揭示了從不久前長及膝蓋的泳裙發展到今天遍地都是比基尼泳裝的過程。

The rise of the resort

沙灘度假的增多

"The story really starts with the shiFT from bathing in Victorian times to swimming," says FTM curator D ennis Nothdruft. "There was this great movement toward activity, and particularly women being more acth

這個故事確實是從維多利亞時代的沐浴向游泳轉變而開始的，"FTM館長丹尼斯說,“這是向活力的重大轉變，尤其是婦 女變得更有活力時。”

Stripping down for the beach still meant donning long skirts, stockings, and shoes until the 1920s, when fashion designer Coco Chanel's Cote d'Azure escapades convinced fashionable women to stop shunning the sun.

直到1920年，人們因沙灘度假而脫去衣服時，還是會穿着長裙，長筒襪，和鞋子，到1920年，時裝設計師可可·香奈兒在藍色海岸的出格行爲說服了時尚女性，不再讓自己的身體躲避陽光。

But while the Roaring Twenties have the more scandalous reputation, it wasn't until the 1930's that swimsuits started to look (somewhat) conventionally skimpy, and the two piece made its debut.

但是，在喧囂的20年代，這還是有些羞澀，直到1930年代，泳衣纔開始變得更加緊身，分體式泳衣首次出現。

"You start to see more and more of what we consider contemporary swimsuits," Nothdruft says. "You sta to see cutaway swimsuits — they cut away the sides at the top — and they start adding various revealing elements.••

“你開始看到越來越多的現代意義上的泳裝。”丹尼斯說，"你開始看到圓角泳衣了;他們剪掉了泳衣的上部;他們開始加入各種各祥的暴露元素。"

By the 1950s, two piece suits were commonplace. Essentially glorified lingerie, they created the same co veted hourglass figure as the decade's restricting shape wear.

到了1950年代，分體式泳衣已經司空見慣。基本上變成了美化的內衣，他們塑造了與之後幾十年的塑形緊身衣一祥的沙漏型身材。

"You start to get the sense that swimsuits aren't just for swimming," he says. "All of a sudden it's about shaping the body and creating a silhouette."

"我們開始創造一種觀念——泳衣不只是爲了游泳而穿，"他說，"我指的是塑造形體和輪廓。"

The bikini as we know it now made its first appearance in the 1960s, as fashion trends became more youth-oriented, and a more natural silhouette was championed by designers.

1960年代，我們所熟知的比基尼首次出現，並作爲時尚潮流越來越年輕化，一個更自然的輪廓也被設計者青睞。

"In the 1950s, teenagers looked like their mothers. By the 1960s, mothers wanted to look like their daughters," Nothdruft says.

丹尼斯說，"在1950年代，青少年的穿着很像她們的母親。到了1960年代，母親們則開始學習她們女兒的穿着。"

Textile innovation

紡織品的創新

While the modesty of the post-Victorian swimming outfits is perhaps the most conspicuous difference between then and now, the change in materials is just as stark.

在莊重的維多利亞時代，泳裝與現在顯著不同，材質的改變非常明顯。

"It's the story of innovation," Nothdruft says. "It really relates to finding materials that respond to the requirements: fitting and getting wet."

"這是一個創新的故事，"丹尼斯說，"指的是尋找能夠適應需求的材料：合身與溼身。"

Predating modern elastic, early swimsuits were made from knitted cotton and wools that grew heavy and hung uncomfortably when wet.

比現代的彈性布料更早，早期泳衣由針織棉和針織毛製成，在溼身時會變得非常沉重和不舒適。

This would continue on through the 1930s, when elastic yarns -- cottons and wools wrapped with elastic threads -- would take over, only to be usurped by stretch fabrics in the 1950s. (Lycra wouldn't become ubiquitous until the 1980s.)

這種情況從1930年代開始，當時的彈性絲——棉花和羊毛被彈性線包裹——佔統治地位，但最終被鬆緊織物取代。（萊卡彈性布料直到1980年代才普遍使用。）

Modern swimwear landmarks, like the Speedo LZR Racer Suit that was originally banned from the Olympics for giving athletes and unfair advantage, suggest a recent shift from the merely practical to the performance-enhancing.

現代泳衣品牌，比如鯊魚皮，最初在奧運會上是被禁止的，因爲它們會讓選手獲得不公平的優勢，這表明這些改變不僅僅讓它更舒適，也讓它更有實際效用。

"What we're showing are some really fantastic developments in swimwear," says Nothdruft. "There are all sorts of innovations in tech and fabric and cut and manipulation."

"我們展示的是有關泳衣的一些真正了不起的發展，"丹尼斯說，"這些都是在技術上，材質上，減少布料上，和製造工藝上的創新。"

Does this mean that, from a fashion standpoint, the swimsuit has been taken as far as it can go? It's a possibility.

這意味着，從時尚的角度，泳衣已經達到了它能達到的頂峯了嗎？這是可能的。

"It's hard to say what we'll be doing in the future ... I think we've covered everything," he says. "We'll have to start wearing full dresses when we're swimming again. Stockings and shoes..."

"很難說我們未來還會做些什麼。我認爲我們已經做了所有能做的事情，"他說，"我們將不得不再次穿着盛裝去游泳。再加上長筒襪和鞋子。"