女王的穿着時尚 包包裏都有些啥(下)
As the most photographed and filmed woman in history and the longest reigning monarch, the Queen has been a focal point for mass communication as it has evolved, from its early days with the first colour photographs and newsreels, to the arrival of television and the internet. When she came to the throne in 1953, the Queen was just 25, her extraordinary coronation gown, created by Hartnell, was embellished with complex symbols and heraldic emblems of the British Isles and the Commonwealth, including an intricate pattern of Welsh leeks, meticulously embroidered on the dress.
作爲歷史上曝光率和矚目率最高女性以及在位時間最長的君王，女王自大衆媒體發展以來一直是其焦點，從最初最早的彩色照片與新聞影片時期，到之後電視和網絡的出現。她於1953年登基，那年她才25歲。女王的加冕禮服由哈特奈爾製作，上面裝飾上了各種複雜的象徵着英國島嶼和英聯邦的紋章與徽章，包括精細複雜的威爾士韭菜圖案，該圖案被細緻地繡在了裙子上。
It’s worth noting what a fantastically glamorous figure the young, 20-something Queen cut, and just what an impact her youthful, attractive image made on the national morale and psyche in the early days of her reign. For a country emerging from wartime austerity, the young Elizabeth was a figure of hope and modernity. The fact that she came to the throne during the heyday of British couture worked in her favour, and although she may have not set out to create trends, she was certainly much imitated. There was even a certain adventurousness about some of her tastes, according to de Guitaut: “Some of her hats from the 1950s and ‘60s have been really quite experimental and challenging.”
值得注意的是，這位20多歲的年輕女王，其服飾造就了其多麼雍容美麗的形象，她那年輕、富有吸引力的形象在她在位的早期給整個民族的鬥志與心理形成了多大的影響。自戰爭年代時期至今一個世紀，年輕的伊莎貝爾女王是一種希望與現代的象徵。她執位之時正值英國服裝設計的全盛時期，這爲她創造了有利條件。雖然女王自己並無用意去創造趨勢，但仍受到了很多人的模仿。女王的一些穿衣嘗試甚至是一種冒險，德吉託說：“女王在上世紀50年代到60年代戴的一些帽子是很具有實驗意義和挑戰性的。”
In the 1950s the Queen was shown incessantly on newsreeld in her Hardy Amies creations (“Reserved, restrained elegance”, as de Guitaut puts it) and Hartnell designs (“More showy and flamboyant.”) It was Hartnell who created the Queen’s stunningly glamorous day dresses of that era, with nipped-in waists and full skirts. And in 1960, for her sister Princess Margaret’s wedding, she sported an immaculate aqua-blue silk taffeta gown with matching bolero jacket and gloves. The net hat was embellished with two blue roses to symbolise Margaret’s second name.
在20世紀50年代，女王越來越多地穿着赫迪•雅曼（Hardy Amies）（按德吉託的話說，其設計是一種保留式的優雅）和哈特奈爾（風格更加張揚豔麗）設計的服裝出現在新聞影片中。 正是哈特奈爾設計出了那個時期女王日常的矚目服飾，多是窄腰長裙。20世紀60年代，在姐姐瑪格麗特公主的婚禮上，女王穿上了一件水藍色塔夫綢晚禮服，並穿戴着配套的女用短上衣和手套。她戴的帽子鑲嵌着兩朵藍色的玫瑰以象徵瑪格麗特的姓氏。
Power dressing
權力服飾
The subliminal language of the Queen’s diplomatic working wardrobe worn on state visits abroad has been similarly thought through, with each outfit incorporating a nod to diplomacy in the shape of an embroidered symbol, insignia or colour scheme, designed to pay a compliment to the host country. On one visit to Australia the Queen wore a dress embroidered with wattle, the national flower of the country; she wore a dress embellished with mayflowers in 1957 on a visit to Nova Scotia; in 1983 her dress was decorated with Californian poppies for a visit to the west coast of the US; closer to home, at the annual Balmoral Ghillies Ball in the late 1960s, the Queen wore an oyster ball dress with tartan sash. Then there is protocol to consider – the Queen has visited the Pope at the Vatican seven times, and has each time worn black, complete with a veil, as any female member of the royal family is required to do.
女王在出國訪問時所穿的外交場合正式服飾所帶有的潛在信息也經過了充分的考慮。其所穿的每套服飾通過刺繡的圖案、標誌或所用的色彩來展現外交含義，其設計的目的是向接待國表示恭敬。在一次出訪澳大利亞的過程中，女王穿了一件刺有澳大利亞國花金合歡的裙子；在1957年訪問新斯科舍時穿着一件鑲有五月花圖案的連衣裙；1983年出訪美國西海岸的時候，她的衣服上裝飾着吉利福尼亞罌粟花；再近一些，在20世紀60年末的年度巴爾莫勒爾（Balmoral） “Ghillies Ball”舞會上，女王穿着配有肩帶的帶有牡蠣圖案的連衣裙。禮儀也是穿衣中需要考慮的因素——女王曾七次拜訪了梵蒂岡的教皇，每一次都是身着黑色的服飾，並帶着面紗，這是皇室每一位女性成員都必須遵守的服飾禮儀。
The royal wardrobe is now largely created by Angela Kelley in the Buckingham Palace workrooms, and the silhouette is a version of the column shift dresses the Queen first wore in the 1960s. The head-to-toe, colour-blocked daywear and matching hats that the monarch favours for her public engagements have become her personal brand. It is an instantly recognisable style.
皇室的服裝現在大多是由安吉拉•凱利（Angela Kelley）在白金漢宮的工作室裏完成製作的，這一輪廓是女王在20世紀60年代第一次穿的寬鬆直筒連衣裙的一個版本。這套全身連衣裙同與其搭配的帽子深受女王喜愛，多在公共場合穿着，這已成爲了她個人的標籤，具有極高的辨識度。
“It’s a dialogue between designer and Queen, and in a way the Queen’s clothes set her apart from us,” says de Guitaut. “Because if she’s going somewhere we need to see her, otherwise it negates the point of her being there. People want her to stand out. So the format of her dressing has followed a constant path – the day dress and jacket or coat suit and a hat, and the obligatory accessories. You don’t see pattern much. You see a flash of solid, vivid colour with the hat matching the outfit, and the shape of the hat is recognisable.” In a perfect British Bake-off twist, some of the most iconic Royal hats recently inspired a range of cakes by Marks and Spencer to celebrate the 90th birthday of the monarch.
“這是一場女王與設計者之間的對話，女王需要通過服裝將其與我們區別開，”德吉託說，“因爲如果女王前往某一個地方，我們必須要見到她，不然女王的出行也就失去了意義。人們希望女王能與衆不同。所以女王服飾的款式一直遵循着這樣一個模式——日常連衣裙，一件短上衣或者正裝外套，加上一頂帽子和必要的首飾。你不會看到很多的圖案。你看的是一身明亮色彩的主裝，加上配套的帽子與短上衣，帽子的形狀極富辨識度。”最近，皇室帽子的形狀也爲蛋糕烘培提供了靈感，英國超市Marks and Spencer就推出了一系列受到皇室帽子啓發的蛋糕爲女王九十大壽慶生。
There are rules that are always adhered to – the two-inch heel, the hemline below the knee, the hem weighed down to avoid undignified wardrobe mishaps in windy conditions. The hats are small brimmed and tall (it is rare to see the Queen without any headgear – headscarf, hat or tiara is worn – unless she is indoors). The colours are bold, some might say difficult, pastels - lemon yellow or coral – and the silhouettes are tailored and suity. But it works – so much so, in fact, that the style has become a kind of paradigm for female power dressing, and has been adapted and borrowed over the decades by the likes of Margaret Thatcher, Angela Merkel , Nicola Sturgeon and Hillary Clinton. The look sends a message of power – it says poise, stature, not to be messed with.
女王的服飾有些必須遵守的規則——鞋底必須兩英尺，裙襬必須長過膝蓋，並加重量以避免在大風情況下意外走光。帽子的邊緣要小，做得要高（很少看到女王是不戴任何頭飾的——頭巾、帽子或冕狀頭飾都會戴——除非女王是在室內待着）。服飾的色彩用得大膽，例如淺藍色、檸檬黃或珊瑚色等等——服飾的輪廓都會被精心裁剪以保得體。女王的服飾風格已成爲了一種女性領導人服飾的標準，被諸如撒切爾夫人、默克爾、尼古拉•斯特金（Nicola Sturgeon）和希拉里•克林頓所效仿借鑑。這一形象風格傳達了這樣一個有關權力的信息——平衡與高度，兩者不能混爲一談。
Equally iconic is the Queen’s handbag, perhaps the most familiar item in her wardrobe. The bags are created by British brand Launer, and she is said to own 200 of them, all with elongated straps to allow for the necessary hand shaking. There has long been speculation about the bag’s contents. There is always a folded ￡5 note for the church collection on Sundays, some commentators have claimed, and a lipstick and mirror. And a mobile phone, suggest others - to call her grandchildren. The Queen has been said to use her bag to communicate subtly with her staff – if she places her bag on the table at a dinner, for instance, it discreetly semaphores the message that she would like the event to come to an end. In a recent formal family photo, one of the Queen’s small great-granddaughters clutches the large handbag proudly, as if to emphasise - and slightly lampoon - its near-mythic, talismanic status.
同樣具有代表意義的是女王的手提包，這可能是女王衣櫃中最令人熟悉的一樣東西。這些手提包也由英國品牌 Launer 設計製造，據說女王擁有200個該牌子的手提包，這些包都有着長長的手提帶以方便女王與他人握手。一直以來都有有關女王手提包裏內容的猜測。一些評論員說，女王的包包裏總是會放着一張摺好的五英鎊紙幣，用於星期日的教堂捐獻，此外包裏還會放着一支口紅和一面鏡子。也有其他人說裏面還放着女王的手機，用來給她的孫子孫女們打電話。據說女王還會用她的包包來同她的下屬們進行微妙的溝通——例如如果她在晚餐的時候將手提包放在了桌子上，那麼這傳達出的信號可能就是她想讓這個活動儘快結束。在最近的一張正式家庭照中，女王的一個小重孫女驕傲地抓着她的大手提包，似乎是在強調——以及輕微地諷刺女王手提包那富有神話色彩的護符似的地位。
When the occasion demands it – for evening or a high state occasion - the Queen has always emerged triumphant in a fully regal ensemble. Her elegant beaded gowns, white fox-fur capes and glittering jewellery complete with tiara are a signature grand combination. The fact that this is a fashionable look this year, (Alexander McQueen, Saint Laurent, Gucci and Valentino have all incorporated a regal touch in their spring/summer collections this year) would seem to suggest that the royal nonagenarian’s ingenious sartorial messaging is still working its magic.
當情況需要的時候——比如晚宴或者高規格的場面——女王總是會以王室的風光形象出現在衆人面前。她那飾以珍珠的晚禮服、雪白的狐皮披肩、配以耀眼珠寶的冕狀頭飾是一種宏大的標誌性結合。事實上，這一形象是今年的流行風格，（Alexander McQueen、 Saint Laurent、Gucci 和 Valentino 都將這種王室的元素納入了它們今年的春夏款服裝）這似乎表明的是，英國王室高齡九十歲的女王的時尚訊息仍在發揮着其獨有的魔力。
