一個美國養生專家的美食建議 My Dinner With Longevity Expert Dan Buettner
Dan Buettner and I were off to a good start. He approved of coffee.
我和丹·比特納(Dan Buettner)的會面有一個不錯的開端。他同意跟我喝杯咖啡。
“It’s one of the biggest sources of antioxidants in the American diet,” he said with chipper confidence, folding up his black Brompton bike.
“在美式飲食中，咖啡是攝取抗氧化劑的主要來源之一，”他帶着一股爽朗的自信說道，順手將他那輛黑色的伯龍騰(Brompton)自行車摺疊了起來。
As we walked through Greenwich Village, looking for a decent shot of joe to fuel an afternoon of shopping and cooking and talking about the enigma of longevity, he pointed out that the men and women of Icaria, a Greek island in the middle of the Aegean Sea, regularly slurp down two or three muddy cups a day.
我們一同漫步在格林威治村中，尋找好喝的咖啡，好在一下午的購物、烹飪以及探討養生祕訣之後給自己補充些精力，他指出，在伊卡里亞島——那座位於愛琴海中央的希臘小島上，無論男女，通常每天都會灌下兩到三大杯的咖啡。
This came as delightful news to me. Icaria has a key role in Mr. Buettner’s latest book, “The Blue Zones Solution,” which takes a deep dive into five places around the world where people have a beguiling habit of forgetting to die. In Icaria they stand a decent chance of living to see 100. Without coffee, I don’t see much point in making it to 50.
這對我來說，倒是條很讓人開心的消息。伊卡里亞島在比特納先生的最新著作《解密藍色區域》(The Blue Zones Solution)中佔據着十分重要的地位，該書深入探索了世界上的五個地區，當地人有種會忘記死亡的有趣習慣。伊卡里亞島上的人民，有很大的機會可以一直活到100歲。要是沒有咖啡，我可不覺得活到50歲以後有什麼樂趣可言。
The purpose of our rendezvous was to see whether the insights of a longevity specialist like Mr. Buettner could be applied to the life of a food-obsessed writer in New York, a man whose occupational hazards happen to include chicken wings, cheeseburgers, martinis and marathon tasting menus.
我們這次約見的目的，是爲了看看比特納先生這種養生專家的觀點，是否也適用於紐約一名吃貨作家的生活——此人的職業風險碰巧也包括雞翅、芝士漢堡、馬丁尼和老饕菜單.
Covering the world of gastronomy and mixology during the era of David Chang (career-defining dish: those Momofuku pork-belly buns) and April Bloomfield (career-defining dish: the lamb burger at the Breslin Bar and Dining Room) does not exactly feel like an enterprise that’s adding extra years to my life — or to my liver.
在張大衛(David Chang，成名菜：桃福[Momofuku]餐廳的五花肉包）和阿普麗爾·布魯姆菲爾德(April Bloomfield，成名菜：Breslin Bar and Dining Room的羊肉漢堡）名噪一時的時代，充滿了烹飪與調酒。我不太會有幫助我——或者說幫助我的肝——延年益壽的進取心。
And the recent deaths (even if accidental) of men in my exact demographic — the food writer Joshua Ozersky, the tech entrepreneur Dave Goldberg — had put me in a mortality-anxious frame of mind.
而且近來，我所關注的公衆人物中，一名又一名的男性相繼去世（包括意外事故在內）——美食作家約書亞·奧澤斯基(Joshua Ozersky)、科技企業家戴夫·古德伯格(Dave Goldberg)，這讓我陷入了死亡焦慮的精神狀態。
With my own half-century mark eerily visible on the horizon, could Mr. Buettner, who has spent the last 10 years unlocking the mysteries of longevity, offer me a midcourse correction?
眼看着我就要迎來自己的知天命之年，不知道過去十年裏都在嘗試解開長壽之謎的比特納先生，能不能讓我在中途修正一下我的人生呢？
To that end, he had decided to cook me something of a longevity feast. Visiting from his home in Minnesota and camped out at the townhouse of his friends Andrew Solomon and John Habich in the Village, this trim, tanned, 55-year-old guru of the golden years was geared up to show me that living a long time was not about subsisting on a thin gruel of, well, gruel.
最後，他決定爲我烹飪一次養生宴。他離開了在明尼蘇達州的住所，前往並暫時借住在他的朋友安德魯·所羅門(Andrew Solomon)和約翰·哈貝克(John Habich)位於格林威治村的聯排別墅中，這位身材頎長，皮膚黝黑，正值黃金年華的55歲大師，已經準備好向我展示，長壽並不是只靠喝稀粥做成的……稀粥。
After that blast of coffee, which I dutifully diluted with soy milk (as instructed) at O Cafe on Avenue of the Americas, Mr. Buettner and I set forth on our quest at the aptly named LifeThyme market, where signs in the window trumpeted the wonders of wheatgrass. He reassured me, again, by letting me know that penitent hedge clippings had no place in our Blue Zones repast.
於是我和比特納先生在美國大道(Avenue of the Americas)上的O Cafe咖啡店喝了一輪咖啡，我還很守規矩地（依照指示）用豆奶替代了牛奶，其後，我們便啓程前往名稱應景的生命百里香超市(LifeThyme Market)，超市櫥窗內的標誌牌宣揚着小麥草的神奇作用，我和比特納先生開始了我們的任務。比特納先生讓我知道了，在藍色區域（Blue Zone，即世界上長壽老人比例最高的地區——譯註）並不存在爲贖罪要修剪籬笆這回事，這再一次地安撫了我。
“People think, ‘If I eat more of this, then it’s O.K. to eat more burgers or candy,’ ” he said. Instead, as he ambled through the market dropping herbs and vegetables into his basket, he insisted that our life-extending banquet would hinge on normal affordable items that almost anyone can pick up at the grocery store. He grabbed fennel and broccoli, celery and carrots, tofu and coconut milk, a bag of frozen berries and a can of chickpeas and a jar of local honey.
“人們總以爲，‘只要我多吃點這個，那麼再多吃些漢堡或糖果也不怕’，”他說道。事實上，他一邊慢慢地逛着超市，不斷將藥草和蔬菜丟進籃子裏，一邊強調說，我們的養生宴用的全都是些價格實惠的常見食材，幾乎人人都能在食品雜貨店裏買到。他拿了茴香和西蘭花，西芹和胡蘿蔔，豆腐和椰漿，一袋冷凍漿果和一聽鷹嘴豆，還有一罐當地產的蜂蜜。
The five communities spotlighted in “The Blue Zones Solution” (published by National Geographic) depend on simple methods of cooking that have evolved over centuries, and Mr. Buettner has developed a matter-of-fact disregard for gastro-trends of all stripes. At LifeThyme, he passed by refrigerated shelves full of vogue-ish juices in hues of green, orange and purple. He shook his head and said, “Bad!”
《解密藍色區域》（由《美國國家地理》[National Geographic]出版）一書中所關注的五處社區，靠的都是一些簡單的烹飪方法，在當地已經傳承演化了數百年的時間，而比特納先生對於那些五花八門、引人胃口的食材，已經培養出了一種不帶感情的漠視態度。他在生命百里香超市裏，走過一排排的冷藏貨架，裏面擺滿了五顏六色的時新果汁——綠的、黃的和紫的。他搖了搖頭，唸了一句：“差勁！”
“The glycemic index on that is as bad as Coke,” he went on, snatching a bottle of carrot juice to scan the label. “For eight ounces, there’s 14 grams of sugar. People get suckered into thinking, ‘Oh, I’m drinking this juice.’ Skip the juicing. Eat the fruit. Or eat the vegetable.” (How about a protein shake? “No,” he said.)
“那堆東西的血糖指標跟可樂一樣可怕，”他走了過去，抓起一瓶胡蘿蔔汁，瀏覽瓶身上的標籤。“這一瓶才8盎司，卻含有14克的糖分。大家還真的以爲‘我是在喝胡蘿蔔榨的汁’呢。喝什麼榨汁。直接吃水果纔是正經。或者直接吃蔬菜。”（那蛋白粉飲料呢？“別喝，”他說。）
So far, I was feeling pretty good about my chances of making it to 100. I love coffee, I’m not much of a juicer and I’ve never had a protein shake in my life. Bingo. I figured that pretty soon Mr. Buettner would throw me a dietary curveball (I noticed with vague concern that he was not putting any meat or cheese into his basket), but by this point I was already thinking about how fun it would be to meet my great-grandchildren.
到現在爲止，我覺得自己還是有很大機會能活到100歲的。我愛喝咖啡，我不怎麼喝榨汁，我這一生中也從來沒有喝過一杯蛋白粉飲料。贊。我料想比特納先生很快就會向我丟來一隻飲食“曲線球”（我暗地裏注意到，他沒有往購物籃裏放入任何肉類或奶酪），但是此時此刻，我已經開始幻想能夠見到自己的曾孫們會是件多麼開心的事了。
I felt even better when he and I started talking about strenuous exercise, which for me falls somewhere between “root canal” and “Justin Bieber concert” on the personal aversion scale.
當我們兩人開始聊起劇烈運動時，我甚至感覺更好了。要知道劇烈運動在我的個人厭惡排行榜上，大概可以排在“牙根管手術”與“賈斯汀·比伯演唱會”之間。
I like to go for long walks, and … well, that’s about it.
我喜歡多走路，還有……嗯，也就這樣了。
“That’s when I knew you’d be O.K.,” Mr. Buettner told me.
“我就知道你沒問題的，”比特納先生對我說道。
It turns out that walking is a popular mode of transport in the Blue Zones, too — particularly on the sun-splattered slopes of Sardinia, Italy, where many of those who make it to 100 are shepherds who devote the bulk of each day to wandering the hills and treating themselves to sips of red wine.
原來步行也是藍色區域盛行的一種交通方式——尤其是在陽光灑滿山坡的意大利撒丁島(Sardinia)，那裏有許多活到了100歲的居民都是牧羊人，將每天的大把時光都用在了在山間閒逛，和啜飲幾口紅酒來犒勞自己。
“A glass of wine is better than a glass of water with a Mediterranean meal,” Mr. Buettner told me.
“吃地中海料理的時候，配上一杯紅酒要比一杯清水好，”比特納先生對我說。
Red wine and long walks? If that’s all it takes, people, you’re looking at Methuselah.
紅酒和多走路？如果這就是長壽的全部祕訣，各位，你們面前現在就站着一位瑪土撒拉(Methuselah)哪。
O.K., yes, Mr. Buettner moves his muscles a lot more than I do. He likes to go everywhere on that fold-up bike, which he hauls along with him on trips, and sometimes he does yoga and goes in-line skating. But he generally believes that the high-impact exercise mania as practiced in the major cities of the United States winds up doing as much harm as good.
好吧，沒錯，比特納先生的運動量要比我大多了。他去任何地方都喜歡騎着他那輛摺疊自行車，在旅途中也會全程攜帶，他有時還去練瑜伽和滑直排輪。不過他基本認爲，像美國大城市裏常見的那種高強度運動狂，往往最後落下的傷病和得到的鍛鍊一樣多。
“You can’t be pounding your joints with marathons and pumping iron,” he said. “You’ll never see me doing CrossFit.”
“你不能任由馬拉松和重量訓練爲你的關節增加負擔，”他說道，“你永遠不會看到我去做體能訓練。”
For that evening’s meal, Mr. Buettner planned to cook dishes that would make reference to the quintet of places that he focuses on in “The Blue Zones Solution”: along with Icaria and Sardinia, they are Okinawa, Japan; the Nicoya Peninsula in Costa Rica; and Loma Linda, Calif., where Seventh-day Adventists have a tendency to outlive their fellow Americans, thanks to a mostly vegetarian diet that is heavy on nuts, beans, oatmeal, 100 percent whole-grain bread and avocados.
關於當天的晚餐，比特納先生計劃烹製幾道菜餚，它們全部借鑑自《解密藍色區域》一書中所關注的五個地區：除了伊卡里亞島和撒丁島外，還有日本的沖繩、哥斯達黎加(Costa Rica)的尼科亞半島(Nicoya Peninsula)，以及美國加州的羅馬琳達(Loma Linda)，當地的基督復臨安息日會(Seventh-day Adventists)教友普遍要比一般的美國人更長壽，這要多謝他們以素食爲主的飲食，其中含有大量的堅果、豆類、燕麥、全麥麪包和牛油果。
We walked from the market to the townhouse. And it was here, as Mr. Buettner laid out his cooking ingredients on a table in Mr. Solomon’s and Mr. Habich’s commodious, state-of-the-art kitchen, that I noticed the first real disconnect between the lives of the Blue Zones sages and the life of a food writer who has enjoyed many a lunch hour scarfing down charcuterie, tapas and pork-belly-topped ramen at the Gotham West Market food court.
我們出了超市，回到聯排別墅。比特納先生將他買到的食材，全部擺到所羅門先生和哈貝克先生那寬敞又先進的廚房裏的桌子上，就在此時，我注意到，一名經常在午餐時間，狼吞虎嚥紐約西市場美食廣場的各種豬肉熟食、西班牙小吃和五花肉拉麪的美食作家，與藍色區域的哲人們，在生活上真實存在的第一道鴻溝。
Where was the butter? Hadn’t some nice scientists determined that butter’s not so lethal for us, after all? (“My view is that butter, lard and other animal fats are a bit like radiation: a dollop a couple of times a week probably isn’t going to hurt you, but we don’t know the safe level,” Mr. Buettner later wrote in an email. “At any rate, I can send along a paper that largely refutes the whole ‘Butter is Back’ craze.” No, thanks, I’m good.)
黃油在哪兒？不是有一些善良的科學家判定，黃油對我們並沒有那麼糟嗎？（“在我看來，黃油，還有豬油和其他動物類脂肪，都有點像輻射：一週吃上兩次，每次一小塊，是不會給你帶來什麼壞處的，但是我們並不瞭解具體的安全水平，”比特納先生後來在一封電子郵件裏寫道，“不管怎樣，我可以發給你一篇論文，它在很大程度上駁斥了整套‘黃油迴歸’熱。”不了，謝謝，我不需要）
Where was the meat? Where was the cheese? (No cheese? And here I thought we’d be friends for another 50 years, Mr. Buettner.)
肉在哪兒？奶酪在哪兒？（沒有奶酪？我以爲我們可以再做上50年的朋友的，比特納先生）
“If you’re eating this meal, you’re getting all the protein you need,” he promised me, although it wasn’t my protein intake I was worried about.
他向我承諾道：“吃完這頓飯後，你會獲得你所需要的所有蛋白質，”雖然我所擔心的並不是我的蛋白質攝入情況。
Although it is by no means a stealth vegan manifesto, “The Blue Zones Solution” frequently mentions that men and women in these longevity-friendly regions tend to eat meat and fish only sparingly, and they almost never tangle with cow’s milk. Mr. Buettner had leapt to the conclusion that I had probably had enough meat and cheese for the week already. He was correct.
雖然《解密藍色區域》一書在任何意義上，都不算是一篇隱晦的素食者宣言，但它頻繁提到，這些長壽地區的居民，無論男女，通常只會吃少量的肉類和魚類，他們對牛奶也幾乎沒有任何執念。比特納先生已經直接得出了結論：我大概已經攝入了這周所需的肉類和奶酪。他說得對。
“We’re making up for all your sins tonight,” he told me. “What you learn tonight is going to set you on a new path.”
“今晚我們要彌補你所有的罪過，”他對我說，“你今晚所學到的東西，將會帶你走上新的道路。”
The centerpiece of Mr. Buettner’s dinner was a dish he had named “Icarian stew,” which involved a big pot of black-eyed peas, fennel, onions, garlic, carrots, canned tomatoes and other plant-based delights simmered for hours and then topped with a few glugs of extra-virgin olive oil.
比特納先生準備的晚餐主菜，是一道他口中的“伊卡里亞島燉湯”，用一大罐豇豆、茴香、洋蔥、蒜、胡蘿蔔、罐頭裝西紅柿及其他植物類食品放在一起燉上幾個小時，然後淋上幾滴初榨橄欖油。
“I eat this all the time,” he said. “This is how I seduced Kathy Freston, by the way. You ask her. Ask her if Icarian stew has any role in her love for me.” (Mr. Buettner is dating Ms. Freston, the author and advocate of veganism who used to be married to Tom Freston, the former MTV executive.)
“我一直吃的都是這個，”他說道，“順便說一句，我就是靠這道菜讓凱茜·弗雷斯頓(Kathy Freston)迷上我的。你可以去問問她。問她伊卡里亞島燉湯在她對我的愛中有沒有起到什麼作用。”（比特納先生正在與弗雷斯頓女士約會，後者是作家兼素食主義倡導者，曾與原MTV高管湯姆·弗雷斯頓[Tom Freston]有過一段婚史）
Raised in Minnesota, Mr. Buettner (pronounced BYOOT-ner) grew up eating “hotdish and Hamburger Helper — the usual Midwest crap,” he said.
在明尼蘇達州長大的比特納先生說，“熱菜和漢堡幫手(Hamburger Helper)的料理包——最常見的中西部垃圾食物”，他從小吃到大。
But in 2005 he wrote an article about the secrets of longevity for National Geographic, and the lightning-striking success of it bestowed upon him both a career mission (starting with his first book, “The Blue Zones: 9 Lessons for Living Longer From the People Who’ve Lived the Longest,” in 2008) and a new mode of looking at food.
但是在2005年，他爲《美國國家地理》寫了一篇文章，探討長壽的祕訣，突如其來的成功爲他帶來了一項職業使命（以他在2008年出版的處女作《藍色區域：世界最長壽者的九大長壽祕訣》[The Blue Zones: 9 Lessons for Living Longer From the People Who’ve Lived the Longest]爲開端），也讓他看待食物有了一種新的角度。
He’s now a fierce believer in Japanese yams, wild greens and milk thistle. (Throughout “The Blue Zones Solution,” he stresses that people in these parts of the world don’t just happen to live a long time, they do so with lower rates of the diabetes, heart disease and dementia that seem to afflict much of the junk-food-gobbling globe.)
他現在是日本山藥、野菜和奶薊草的虔誠信徒。（《解密藍色區域》一書從頭到尾都在強調，這些地區的居民並非只是湊巧活得比較久而已，他們在糖尿病、心臟病和老年癡呆方面的患病率也很低，而這些疾病似乎是許多垃圾食物重災區的地方病）
Not long ago he dropped by the Mayo Clinic to meet a doctor for an executive physical. “I wanted to see if it really paid off,” Mr. Buettner said. “And apparently it has. I had the clearest arteries he’d ever seen in a 54-year-old man.”
不久前，他前往梅約診所(Mayo Clinic)，找醫生做了次體檢。“我想看看這麼做是不是真的有效，”比特納先生說，“結果似乎是有效的。我體內的動脈是他在54歲的男性身上見過的最乾淨的。”
Nevertheless, his findings over the last decade do put him at odds with a controversial range of culinary belief systems.
儘管如此，他在過去十年裏的發現，確實將他擺到了傳統美食理念的對立面。
During our afternoon and evening together, he joked that the paleo diet is fine if all you want is the life expectancy of a cave man. The raw food movement? Mr. Buettner brushed it aside and pointed out that in all of the Blue Zones, people cook their meals, sometimes for hours.
在我們共處的那一整個下午和傍晚，他都在開玩笑地說，古代飲食沒什麼問題，只要你想要的只是和山頂洞人活得一樣長。生食運動？比特納先生對此無動於衷，他解釋說，在所有那些藍色區域裏，人們都會烹製自己的飲食，有時候甚至會用上幾個小時的時間。
Fear of a wheat planet? “Bogus,” he said. After a couple of hours in the kitchen, Mr. Buettner defied the carb-avoiders and gluten-dodgers of America by dashing over to Union Square on foot to score several loaves of long-fermented, freshly baked sourdough at Breads Bakery.
害怕地球被小麥完全佔領嗎？“想太多了，”他說。在廚房裏辛苦勞作了幾個小時後，比特納先生徒步奔向了聯合廣場(Union Square)，在麪包房Breads Bakery購買了幾塊長時間發酵、新鮮烘培出來的酸麪包，以此表達了對美國低碳水攝入者和低麩質攝入者的蔑視。
“A true sourdough bread will actually lower the glycemic load of a meal,” he said. “But it has to be a real sourdough bread.” (Whew. We were back to the good news.)
“一塊正宗的酸麪包，其實有助於降低一餐爲人體帶來的血糖負擔，”他說，“但必須得是正宗的酸麪包才行。”（唷！我們終於又開始聽到好消息了）
After a bunch of his friends had gathered in the kitchen (Mr. Buettner referred to them as his New York “moai,” which is an Okinawan term for a circle of people who purposefully meet up and look out for one another), he opened a bottle of hard-to-find Sardinian wine and asked them to take their seats. Among them were Mr. Solomon, the author of books like “Far From the Tree” and “The Noonday Demon,” and Samantha Boardman, a psychiatrist and the wife of the real-estate tycoon Aby J. Rosen.
在他的一幫朋友聚到了廚房內後（比特納先生稱他們爲他的紐約“摩埃”[moai]，這個詞語在沖繩語中指的是會主動聚會和相互關心的朋友圈子），他開了一瓶難得一見的撒丁島紅酒，吩咐大家就座。在座的有所羅門先生，他是《那些與衆不同的孩子》(Far From the Tree)、《抑鬱》(The Noonday Demon)等書的作者，還有薩曼莎·鮑德曼(Samantha Boardman)，精神病學家，也是房地產大鱷阿比·羅森(Aby J. Rosen)的夫人。
There came a broccoli soup thickened with cashew cream; a simple Japanese paste made from mixing sweet potato and coconut milk; a honey-touched tofu parfait crowned with a berry compote, which Mr. Buettner called “a little naughty” because it was sweeter than what you would normally find in a sugar-averse Blue Zone. (Naughty? I guess Mr. Buettner has never had the gochujang Buffalo wings at Seoul Chicken.)
於是陸續上了一道用腰果乳增稠的西蘭花湯，用甘薯和椰漿調製的簡單日式調料，點了少許蜂蜜的豆腐凍糕，上面還蓋了一層漿果蜜餞，比特納先生爲它取了個名字叫“小淘氣”，因爲它要比你平時在不愛吃糖的藍色區域所吃到的更甜一些。（淘氣？我猜比特納先生從來沒有嘗過首爾炸雞[Seoul Chicken]的韓式苦椒醬布法羅辣雞翅）
Mr. Solomon, although enthusiastic about the longevity feast, appeared to be reading my mind. “No cheese in Sardinia?” he asked, a trace of longing in his voice.
所羅門先生雖然對養生宴充滿熱情，但卻似乎看出了我的想法。“撒丁島沒有奶酪嗎？”他問道，語調中流露出了一絲渴望的味道。
The meal itself was delicious and nourishing, even if there were moments when my restaurant-conditioned palate was crying out for salt. In a sense, though, the meal was almost beside the point, blurring as it went on into waves of wine and conviviality.
所有餐品都很美味，也很滋補，即便有那麼幾次，我被餐館調教出來的味覺在迫切呼喚着食鹽的存在。雖然在某種意義上，這頓飯幾乎偏離了主題，當大家開始進入暢飲紅酒和交際狀態時，更是完全模糊掉了重點。
Along the way, Mr. Buettner stage-whispered into Mr. Solomon’s ear, asking whether our host might be willing to dip into the wine cellar for a special bottle or two. Icaria is known for the longevity of its residents; it’s also known for Dionysian all-night parties. I can’t say for sure whether I felt longevity coursing through my veins, but there was a fair amount of alcohol.
一路上，比特納先生用其他人也能聽見的聲音，靠在所羅門先生耳邊私語，詢問我們的這位東家有沒有可能願意從酒窖裏拿出一兩瓶特製紅酒出來。伊卡里亞島出名的不僅是長壽的居民，還有通宵達旦的酒神節派對。我不敢說我是否感受到長壽因子正在我的血管中流淌，不過相當數量的酒精倒肯定是有的。
“The secret sauce is the right mix of friends,” Mr. Buettner said.
“我的祕製醬料就是脾胃投契的朋友聚會，”比特納先生說。
And as each course arrived (the Icarian stew claiming its rich, flavor-deep place as an obvious showstopper), Mr. Buettner called attention to a last point about the Blue Zones: that in longevity idylls like Icaria, it’s not just about what you eat, but how you eat, and how much you and your friends enjoy a meal together.
每當有一道菜上桌（伊卡里亞島燉湯因口感豐富口味濃郁而大受歡迎），比特納先生便會呼籲大家關注藍色區域的最後一項要點：在伊卡里亞島這樣的養生田園環境中，重要的不僅是你吃了什麼，還有你是怎麼吃的，以及你和朋友在一起吃得有多開心。
“Dan, do any of the Blue Zones people eat kale salad?” Mr. Solomon asked.
“丹，藍色區域裏有沒有人吃羽衣甘藍沙拉呀？”所羅門先生問道。
“No,” Mr. Buettner replied. “They eat food that they enjoy.”
“沒有，”比特納先生答道，“他們只吃能讓他們吃得開心的食物。”
