美容市場,男士成亮點

Maybelline’s Big Shot mascara campaign features a model with impeccable eye make-up, thick eyelashes and?.?.?.?well-groomed stubble.

美寶蓮(Maybelline)的Big Shot睫毛膏廣告邀請的是一位畫着完美眼妝、塗着濃密睫毛還……留着有型鬍鬚的模特。

Manny Gutierrez last month became just the second man to be chosen as the face for a make-up advertisement, the first being cosmetics aficionado James Charles, whose Instagram posts caught the eye of Covergirl last year.

上個月，曼尼?古鐵雷斯(Manny Gutierrez)成爲第二個被選爲化妝品廣告代言人的男士，第一位是化妝達人詹姆斯?查爾斯(James Charles)，去年，他在Instagram的帖子引起了Covergirl的注意。

Mr Charles, who has more than 1m Instagram followers, and Mr Gutierrez, who has 3m, believe that make-up should not be restricted to women. Make-up is “genderLESS and has no rules!”, Mr Gutierrez tells his 2m YouTube subscribers.

查爾斯在Instagram擁有超過100萬的粉絲，古鐵雷斯的粉絲數量高達300萬。他們認爲，化妝不應限於女性。古鐵雷斯告訴他在YouTube上的200萬訂閱用戶，化妝是“沒有性別的，也沒有任何規則！”。

That men can be the face of a global make-up brand underscores how large consumer goods companies like L’Oréal and Coty, which respectively own cosmetic brands Maybelline and Covergirl, see diversity as an increasingly powerful market. This market includes men using traditionally female cosmetics or a growing array of new products aimed at men.

男性可以成爲全球化妝品牌代言人，這突顯出歐萊雅(L’Oréal)和Coty（分別擁有化妝品牌美寶蓮和Covergirl）等大型消費品公司，正把多樣性視爲一個日益強大的市場。這個市場包括使用傳統女性化妝品或越來越多的男士專用新產品的男性。

It is an extension of a male grooming industry worth close to $50bn last year — with moisturisers, pomades, body hair removal products and blemish concealer populating increasing areas of physical and digital shelf space. Retail sales of male grooming products at Procter & Gamble, including its Gillette brand, are more than $11bn, while Unilever, which sells the Axe and Lynx brands, sold nearly $5bn in 2015, the latest figures available, according to Euromonitor.

這是去年規模近500億美元的男士美容行業的延伸。保溼霜、潤髮油、脫毛產品以及遮瑕膏正佔領越來越多的實體和數字零售貨架。根據歐睿(Euromonitor)的最新數據，寶潔(Procter & Gamble)男士美容產品（包括吉列(Gillette)品牌）的零售銷售額超過110億美元，Axe和凌仕(Lynx)品牌所有者聯合利華(Unilever) 2015年的男士美容產品銷售額爲近50億美元。

Graeme Pitkethly, Unilever’s chief financial officer, noted on a recent earnings call that male grooming was a business he expected to grow “above the personal care average for many years to come”.

聯合利華首席財務官格雷姆?皮特凱特利(Graeme Pitkethly)在最近一次業績電話會議上指出，他預計，男士美容行業的增速將“在未來很多年超過個人護理業的平均水平”。

But sales growth in the male grooming market slowed to 3.1 per cent last year from a compound annual growth rate, or CAGR, of 5.7 per cent in the five years to 2015, according to Euromonitor.

但根據歐睿的數據，去年，男士美容市場的銷售額增速降至3.1%，而在截至2015年的5年裏，複合年增長率爲5.7%。

Nicholas Micallef, a beauty and personal care analyst at Euromonitor, says the men’s grooming market will not match the women’s market anytime soon. “Scope for growth exists in dynamic markets such as the US, India, and Brazil in the longer-term. It is a key area for all industry players, and their focus is now to understand what motivates men to use beauty items, and what makes them comfortable to shop.”

歐睿美容和個人護理行業分析師尼古拉斯?米卡萊夫(Nicholas Micallef)表示，男士美容市場將不會很快趕上女性市場。“較長期而言，美國、印度和巴西等富有活力的市場具有增長空間。它對所有行業參與者都是關鍵領域，他們現在的焦點是瞭解促使男性使用美容產品的因素是什麼，以及什麼讓他們在購物時感到舒服。”

Underscoring the gap between men and women, globally men’s per capita spend on grooming products was $6.50 in 2015, compared with $58.50 for women, Euromonitor says. Although that is a large gap, the boundaries separating male and female-specific products are not always clear. Some products are unisex, some men use products — such as concealer — that are found in the women’s sections of retail outlets, while some women, in Brazil for example, use men’s razors for shaving their legs.

根據歐睿的數據，全球範圍內，2015年，男性人均美容產品支出爲6.50美元，而女性爲58.50美元，這突顯出男女在這方面的差距。儘管差距很大，但男女專用產品的界限並不總是很清晰。一些產品是男女通用，一些男性使用的美容產品（例如遮瑕膏）可以在零售商店的女性櫃檯找到，而一些女性（例如在巴西）則使用男士剃鬚刀給腿部脫毛。

The slowdown in growth for male grooming products is partly explained by lacklustre economic growth, analysts say. Unlike women, who count beauty products as essential items, for many men, particularly those with families, male grooming items — with the exception of razors — more easily drop off the shopping list when money gets tight.

分析人士表示，男士美容產品增長放緩在一定程度上是因爲經濟增長乏力。與女性不同（女性將美容產品視爲必需品），對於很多男性而言，尤其是那些有家有口的男性，在資金緊張時，男士美容產品（剃鬚刀除外）更容易從購物清單上刪除。

Brazil, a top male grooming products market, had been a particularly bright spot, having enjoyed a 16 per cent CAGR increase in the five years to 2015. But as the nation’s economy struggles in a deep recession, growth in 2016 is estimated at 4.6 per cent to $6.79bn. In western Europe, where high youth unemployment in Mediterranean countries such as Spain persist, growth has decelerated to a 0.7 per cent rise to $12.5bn.

巴西是男士美容產品的最大市場之一，該國曾經是一個特別的亮點，在截至2015年的5年裏，該行業的複合年增長率曾經高達16%。但由於該國經濟陷入嚴重衰退，步履維艱，2016年該行業增速預計將降至4.6%，銷售額67.9億美元。在西歐，西班牙等地中海國家的年輕人失業率居高不下，男士美容產品市場的增速放緩至0.7%，銷售額125億美元。

Mr Micallef says the UK is bolstered by high income earners. They have fuelled the growth of small companies such as Beast, which sells men’s grooming products, including shampoos retailing for as much as ￡27, compared with Unilever’s Lynx brand shampoo, priced at about ￡5.

米卡萊夫表示，英國市場受到高收入者的支撐。他們促進了小公司的發展，例如銷售男士美容產品的Beast，其產品包括售價高達27英鎊的洗髮水，而聯合利華凌仕品牌洗髮水的售價則爲5英鎊左右。

However, many lower to middle income men cannot afford such products. Andrew Snavely — founder of US online magazine Primer, which writes about practical style and grooming advice for young men — believes that this demographic is being sidelined.

然而，很多中低收入的男性買不起這種產品。美國在線雜誌Primer創始人安德魯?斯內夫利(Andrew Snavely)認爲，這一人羣被忽視了。該雜誌爲年輕男士撰寫實用的穿衣和美容建議。

“Traditional men’s magazines almost completely ignore the grooming needs of the average guy,” says Mr Snavely, who says his online magazine, founded in 2008 as an alternative to established brands such as GQ and Esquire, has 1.5m monthly page views.

斯內夫利表示：“傳統男士雜誌幾乎完全忽視了普通人的美容需求。”他表示，他的在線雜誌創建於2008年，提供有別於《智族》(GQ)和《Esquire》等老牌雜誌的內容，月度頁面瀏覽量爲150萬。

He adds that young professional men find trial and error with products to be an expensive and time-consuming process, “especially for an aspect of life men are taught not to pay so much attention to”.

他補充稱，年輕的職場男士發現，在美容產品上試錯是一個代價高昂且耗時的過程，“特別是在男士們被教導不要關注很多的生活領域。”

Male grooming brands such as Unilever’s Axe has broken from its far more conservative approach to lure consumers. It has attempted to reach a more diverse audience by focusing on individuality over gender identification or sexuality. Its “Find your Magic” campaign features men of all shapes, sizes and sexualities and has generated 10m YouTube hits over the past year.

聯合利華的Axe等男士美容品牌爲吸引消費者，放棄了那種保守得多的策略。該品牌試圖通過關注個性，而非性別認同或性別特徵來觸及更廣泛的受衆。其“發現你的魔力”(Find your Magic)廣告的主角是各種體型、身材和男性特徵的男士，過去一年在YouTube吸引了1000萬的點擊量。

The introduction of new products, such as L’Oréal’s male deodorant for shaved armpits, combined with acquisitions such as Unilever’s purchase of Dollar Shave Club, the online razor subscription service, as well as the growth of small niche companies, all point to confidence in the longer-term success of the male grooming market.

新產品的引入（例如歐萊雅的男士腋下除臭產品）、聯合利華收購在線剃鬚刀訂購服務Dollar Shave Club等併購交易，以及小型利基公司的發展都表明，人們對男士美容市場的較長期成功充滿信心。

Mr Snavely says: “For the first time men actually have tailored options for their own unique grooming needs, and that’s only going to continue to expand as social perceptions of male grooming evolves.”

斯內夫利表示：“男士自己的獨特美容需求第一次真正有了定製化選擇，隨着社會對男士美容看法的轉變，這一市場將繼續擴大。”