探祕:烏克蘭前總統私人豪宅

On the first warm Spring day in Ukraine on Friday, hundreds of Kiev residents headed to the capital's loveliest spot to soak up the sun: A sprawling park-like estate, with manicured gardens, and a tennis court, bowling alley, and yachting marina. Until a few weeks ago, Ukrainians did not even know this place existed. Certainly, they would have faced immediate arrest had they dared venture through the tall, gold-trimmed gates. Now, the area is one of Ukraine's most visited sites, a living museum to a world that has suddenly, unexpectedly vanished, leaving an uncertain future in its place.

上週五，烏克蘭首都基輔迎來今年第一個溫暖的春日。數百位基輔居民不約而同地前往首都最美麗的一處所在，在那裏沐浴陽光。這是一座氣勢恢宏，猶如公園般的莊園，裏面不僅有修剪整齊的花園，網球場，保齡球館，甚至還有一座遊艇碼頭。就在幾個星期前，烏克蘭人甚至還不知道這個地方的存在。當然，要是他們膽敢闖入高大威嚴、配有金邊的大門，他們馬上就會面臨被逮捕的風險。現在，這塊區域儼然已是烏克蘭參觀人數最多的景點之一。作爲一座活生生的博物館，它記錄的那個世界已經在不經意間蕩然無存，留在身後的是一個不確定的未來。

Welcome to the home of ousted president Viktor Yanukovych.

歡迎光臨前總統維克托•亞努科維奇的官邸。

Hours after former Ukrainian president Viktor Yanukovych fled for his life to Russia on February 22, activists raced to the village of Novi Petrivci, outside Kiev, where Ukraine's presidential residence has for years sat on the banks of the Dnipro River.

2月22日，烏克蘭前總統維克托•亞努科維奇匆匆逃往俄羅斯數小時後，一羣激進分子衝入基輔郊外的Novi Petrivci村。烏克蘭的總統官邸多年來一直坐落在流淌過這個村莊的第聶伯河河畔。

What they found behind the high walls astonished them. The old official residence was dwarfed by a new, five-story, wood-sided mansion, which the president had commissioned for himself and his young mistress around 2011, at a time when Ukraine was deep in debt, and trying to dig itself out from the global recession.

高牆後的發現讓他們驚愕萬分。那棟舊官邸的氣勢完全被一棟簇新的五層木面豪宅遮掩住了，這棟豪宅是前總統在2011年左右專門爲他和年輕的情婦建造的。彼時的烏克蘭債臺高築，正在竭力擺脫全球經濟衰退的陰影。

Outside, the manicured grounds contain graceful bridges, a full-sized pirate ship, a greenhouse, and a zoo filled with rare birds and ostriches. So secret was the area that the airspace above was closed to planes until February 22. Security cameras embedded in the gardens helped to ensure that no staff member snapped evidence of the president's wealth -- money that was largely siphoned off from public coffers, according to Ukraine's new government.

豪宅外處處是修剪整齊的草坪。精緻的小橋旁矗立着一艘全尺寸的海盜船，不遠處還有一個溫室和一個滿是各種珍稀鳥類和鴕鳥的動物園。這塊區域非常神祕，直至2月22日，它的上空還是禁飛區。花園裏裝備了多部安保攝像機，用以確保工作人員沒有拍下彰顯總統財富的證據——烏克蘭新政府聲稱，這些錢基本上都來自國庫。

But the truly jaw-dropping opulence is off-limits to regular Ukrainians, who have descended on the estate during the past two weeks: Inside Yanukovych's private mansion. Filled with priceless objects, the house is locked, and young activists—who until last month were demonstrating on Kiev's Independence Square -- stand guard outside.

但真正令人瞠目結舌的奢華是過去兩週來造訪這棟豪宅的烏克蘭老百姓無緣領略的——亞努科維奇的私人豪宅內部現在已是遊客禁地。這棟房屋被上鎖了，上個月還在基輔獨立廣場示威的年輕人站立在門外，用心看護着屋內琳琅滿目的無價之寶。

On Friday morning, Fortune was treated to an in-depth tour of the private quarters, offering a window into the incalculable luxury Ukraine's leader enjoyed. "France has the Versailles castle, and I would like this to be like that," says Julia Mykytenko, 18, a language student who is one of the activists currently living in the house -- sleeping in the antique carved beds and showering with solid-gold bathroom fittings -- in order to safeguard it from looters. As she guided me through the marble hallways and up a series of intricately carved staircases, she said, "Many of us think this should remain as a museum of corruption."

上週五早上，《財富》記者獲准進入這棟私人城堡，好好地窺視了一番烏克蘭前領導人令人難以想象的奢華生活。“我想法國的凡爾賽宮頂多也就是這樣子吧，”18歲的朱莉婭•米基堅科說。爲了保護這棟房屋免遭掠奪，這位學語言的女生目前跟其他幾位激進分子住在屋內——他們睡在古色古香的雕花牀上，用純金打造的浴室設備洗澡。她一邊引領我穿過大理石走廊，登上精雕細刻的樓梯，一邊說：“我們很多人認爲應該保留這裏的一切，把它作爲一個貪腐博物館。”

As a museum, the house is hard to beat. A vast crystal chandelier (one of many) hangs over a hangar-sized living room, where a white Steinway baby grand overlooks overlooking the gardens. Amid the mountain of documents uncovered in the house were certificates of authenticity for silver daggers and a solid-gold Smith & Wesson .38-cal. handgun, encrusted with 5.1-carat white diamonds. A large bar is stocked with fine French wines. And the mansion's 3-D cinema has Surround-sound, massage chairs, and a small collection of Hollywood hits on DVD, including Shawshank Redemption and Alice in Wonderland.

這棟房屋完全配得上博物館的稱謂。一個龐大的水晶吊燈（衆多水晶吊燈之一）懸掛在一個飛機庫般大小的客廳之上。客廳中一處可俯瞰花園的位置擺放着一架白色的斯坦韋牌臥式鋼琴。在屋內堆積如山的文件中，活動人士發現了數枚銀質匕首和一把鑲有5.1克拉白色鑽石、純金打造的.38口徑史密斯韋森手槍的防僞證明書。走進一個大型酒吧，映入眼簾的是各種法國美酒，令人應接不暇。這棟豪宅的3D影院配有環繞音效系統和按摩椅，還收藏了一些好萊塢大片的DVD影碟，其中包括《肖申克的救贖》(Shawshank Redemption)和《愛麗絲漫遊奇遇記》(Alice in Wonderland)。

Such discoveries of leaders' spectacular opulence are hardly unique in recent history; in fact, they've become sadly familiar. When Saddam Hussein's regime collapsed in Iraq in 2003, palaces and mansions revealed similar splashes of gold and marble, with similarly vast jewelry collection and (weirdly) private zoos. Ditto after the collapse of the dictatorships in Libya, Tunisia and Egypt in 2011.

在近代史上，一國領導人蔚爲壯觀的財富王國突然大白於天下，這種事並不稀罕；非常可悲的是，這一幕其實屢見不鮮。薩達姆•侯賽因政權於2003年垮臺後，呈現在世人面前的同樣是金玉滿堂，珠寶成堆，建有私人動物園的宮殿和豪宅。2011年，利比亞、突尼斯和埃及的獨裁政權相繼崩潰後，人們看到了同樣的景象。

But Ukrainians say they want to preserve, rather than destroy. While Moammar Gaddafi's compound in Tripoli was burnt to the ground, and Saddam's palaces were heavily looted, Ukraine's young activists have painstakingly catalogued every item, as though they were taking inventory in a supermarket. Unlike the enraged burning and looting after the Arab revolutions, Ukrainian activists seem determined to preserve the past as a cautionary tale for future leaders.

但烏克蘭人說，他們希望把這一切保留下來，而不是摧毀掉。卡扎菲在的黎波里的豪宅被燒爲平地，薩達姆的宮殿幾乎被洗劫一空，但烏克蘭的年輕人卻不辭辛苦地把每一件物品編入目錄，似乎是在盤點一家超市的商品。與阿拉伯革命後暴怒之下的焚燒和搶掠不同，烏克蘭的激進分子似乎決心把過去保存下來，作爲一個給予未來領導人的警示。

In the grand lobby of Yanukovych's mansion, next to full-sized knights in silver armor, Mykytenko and her friends have placed valuable items behind a cordon of Scotch tape. They include a huge carved elephant tusk, and a gold Bible case inlaid with enamel. "There were other people guarding this place who drank a lot of the wine, so we had to get them out," Mykytenko says, adding that she had "culture shock" when she first entered the house. "I'd been in the Hermitage Museum [in St. Petersburg, Russia] where I couldn't touch anything. Here, I could touch everything."

在亞努科維奇豪宅的宏偉大堂旁邊，矗立着幾尊身着銀色鎧甲的全尺寸騎士。米基堅科和她的朋友已經拉起了一道警戒線，圍住了所有貴重物品，其中包括一件巨大的象牙雕刻和一個純金打造，鑲嵌着琺琅的聖經盒。米基堅科說：“前段時間守護這個地方的那幾個人整天醉醺醺的，所以我們不得不把他們趕了出去。”她還對我說，第一次進入這棟房屋時，她感受到了一股強烈的“文化衝擊”。“我參觀過俄羅斯聖彼得堡的冬宮博物館(Hermitage Museum)，在那裏我什麼都不能碰。在這裏，我可以觸摸一切東西。”

Yet despite the determination of the young activists to preserve Yanukovych's property, its fate is uncertain. Much of the documents and items are needed for evidence in corruption trials being brought against Yanukovych and major figures in his government. On Friday, military prosecutors and government officials arrived to tour the grounds, and to discuss how to beef up the security and whether to close the area to the public. One prosecutor entered the house to snap photos on his iPhone. "Unbelievable," he said. "People don't have money for operations for their kids, and our president lived this way. It is too much."

然而，儘管這些年輕人下定了保全這些財產的決心，但它的命運依然不確定。亞努科維奇及其政府的重要人物正面臨腐敗指控，屋內的許多文件和物品都需要作爲呈堂證據。上週五，幾位軍事檢察官和政府官員趕來這裏參觀，同時商討了加強安保、是否關閉這片區域，不再向公衆開放等問題。一位檢察官走進屋內，用他的iPhone手機拍攝了幾張照片。“難以置信，”他說。“老百姓連孩子的手術費都掏不起，而我們的總統竟然過着這樣的生活。太過分了。”

Still, the activists guarding the mansion say they remain uncertain over what Ukraine's new leaders should do with the property. "There are two opinions," says Arthur Pereverziev, 24, who works an interpreter at the state-run TV channel, and at a rental-car agency, when he is not guarding the house and sleeping inside it. "Some of us think the items should be sold, and the money should go to compensating the victims of Maidan," or Independence Square, where snipers killed about 80 protesters in last month's bloody climax of the uprising. Pale and lean, Pereverziev was dressed in full combat fatigues, but says he has no military training; like many young activists, he acquired his uniform from the self-proclaimed self-defense units in Kiev's Independence Square during the demonstrations.

不過，幾位守衛豪宅的激進人士說，他們依然拿不準烏克蘭新領導人到底應該怎樣處置這些財產。“目前有兩種意見，”24歲的亞瑟•佩雷韋爾佐夫說。他是一家國營電視臺的口譯員，同時在一家汽車租賃公司兼職。守衛房屋時，他晚上就睡在屋內。“有些人認爲應該賣掉這些東西，用出售所得補償獨立廣場的受害者。”在上個月的流血暴動中，有大約80位示威者死於狙擊手槍下。臉色蒼白，身材清瘦的佩雷韋爾佐夫全副武裝，儼然一副軍人模樣，但他說自己並沒有接受過軍事訓練；像許多年輕的激進分子一樣，他的這套裝備是上個月在基輔獨立廣場示威期間從一隊自稱自衛的軍人手中獲得的。

If prosecutors opt to close the area to the public, there are likely to be many disappointed Ukrainians.

如果檢察官選擇關閉這塊區域，許多烏克蘭人很可能會非常失望。

Two weeks after Yanukovych's downfall, the area has assumed an almost festive air. On the road leading up to the gates, enterprising Ukrainians have set up food stalls selling drinks and barbecue sausages. You can even rent mountain bikes, in order to cycle around the acres of land. It is worth the ride. On one part of the grounds, Yanukovych had placed an ancient Greek temple, whose provenance is unknown. And in another, there is a small chapel, with old, stained glass windows and carved wooden pews.

亞努科維奇倒臺兩個星期後，這片區域已經呈現出一派幾乎類似於節日的喜慶氣氛。在通往豪宅大門的道路上，一些頗具生意頭腦的烏克蘭人搭起了販賣飲料和烤香腸的攤位。遊客甚至可以租一輛山地自行車，環繞這片土地轉上一圈。這個地方的確值得一遊。大家會在沿途看到一座不知道亞努科維奇從哪裏搞來的古希臘神廟。還有一個小教堂，教堂內的舊染色玻璃窗和雕花的木製長椅顯得別有情致。