世界名廚變廢爲寶 在里約建造慈善餐廳
RIO DE JANEIRO — Consider what it takes to keep all those Olympian machines nourished and hydrated for one meal at the Rio Games: 250 tons of raw ingredients to fill the bellies of 18,000 athletes, coaches and officials in the Olympic Village.
里約熱內盧――想想看，需要多少東西，才能在里約奧運會的一餐上爲所有奧運機器提供營養和水分：每頓飯都需要250噸原材料，才能餵飽奧運村裏的1.8萬名運動員、教練員和官員。
Now multiply that figure by three — for breakfast, lunch and dinner — and again for each day of the games.
如果把這個數字乘以三――早飯、午飯和晚飯――那就是奧運會每天所需要的量。
On the other side of the Atlantic Ocean, Italian chef Massimo Bottura also did the math and was inspired, not by the tantalizing dimensions of herculean consumption but by the prospect of colossal waste.
在大西洋的另一側，意大利主廚馬西莫•博圖拉(Massimo Bottura)也做了這樣一道算術題，並且受到了啓發——不是因爲這樣誘人的龐大消耗，而是因爲其中的巨大浪費。
“I thought, this is an opportunity to do something that can make a difference,” said Bottura, 53, a fast-talking blur of a man whose restaurant in Modena, Osteria Francescana, recently earned the top award from the World’s 50 Best Restaurants.
“我當時想，這是做出改變的機會，”53歲的博圖拉說起話來快而含糊，他在摩德納（Modena，意大利北部城市——編注）開的餐廳“Osteria Francescana”前不久剛剛獲得了“世界50佳餐廳”評選的頭獎。
On Thursday night, that something looked like this: In a fraying section of downtown Rio, a pack of the world’s most venerated chefs were rushing around a slapdash kitchen amid a crush of volunteers as they improvised a dinner for 70 homeless people.
星期四晚上，人們眼前出現了這樣一幕：在里約市中心一處破破爛爛的地方，一羣世界上最受人尊敬的大廚跟着一羣志願者涌進一個凌亂的廚房，他們要臨時爲70名無家可歸者做一頓晚餐。
All of the ingredients, most of which might have otherwise been thrown away, had been donated, as had the labor of the chefs and orange-aproned servers, some of whom had traveled to Rio from California, Germany and Japan.
所有食材都是捐獻而來，其中大部分原本是要被丟棄的，大廚們和身穿橘紅色圍裙的侍者們都是免費來做義工，其中有些人還是從加利福尼亞、德國和日本坐飛機趕來的。
The creators of this place, Refettorio Gastromotiva — refettorio means dining hall in Italian — hope it will change the way Brazilians, and the world, think about hunger, food waste and the nourishing of human dignity.
這個地方名叫“Refettorio Gastromotiva”，“refettorio”在意大利語裏就是“餐廳”的意思，創辦者們希望它能改變巴西乃至整個世界對飢餓、浪費食物和培養人性尊嚴的看法。
“This is not just a charity; it’s not just about feeding people,” said Bottura, pausing to pick up trash from the forlorn playground outside his new venture. “This is about social inclusion, teaching people about food waste and giving hope to people who have lost all hope.”
“這不僅僅是一項慈善活動，不僅僅是餵飽人們，”博圖拉頓了一下，從他的新餐廳外面荒涼的遊樂場上撿拾垃圾。“這事關社會融合，它教給人們有關食品浪費的事情，把希望帶給那些失去一切希望的人。”
In the days since it began operating Wednesday out of a hastily erected translucent box in the downtrodden neighborhood of Lapa, Refettorio Gastromotiva has become something of a sensation — a feel-good counterpoint to the commercialization of the games, and to the gluttony that unfolds each night in the pop-up pavilions that many countries have set up throughout the city.
Refettorio Gastromotiva位於窮人住的拉帕(Lapa)社區，是一座倉促搭建起來的半透明盒狀結構，自星期三開始運營以來，很快造成了轟動——奧運會已經高度商業化，這座城市佈滿了來自世界各國的臨時飲攤點，每夜都有許多人大吃大喝，博圖拉的飯館和這種景象形成令人愉悅的鮮明對比。
Prime Minister Matteo Renzi of Italy and Brazilian actress and television host Regina Casé have stopped by, and culinary luminaries like Alain Ducasse, Virgilio Martínez Véliz and Joan Roca are among the 50 chefs who have signed up for kitchen shifts.
意大利總理馬泰奧•倫齊(Matteo Renzi)和巴西女演員、電視節目主持人雷吉娜•卡塞(Regina Casé)都曾在這裏駐足，烹飪界名人阿蘭•杜卡塞(Alain Ducasse)、維爾吉利奧•馬丁內斯•維利茲(Virgilio Martínez Véliz)和霍安•羅卡(Joan Roca)也在廚房的50位輪班廚師之列。
On Thursday night, Alex Atala, who runs DOM, one of Brazil’s top-rated restaurants, and is the former host of a popular cooking show, helped prepare the evening’s menu: Italian-style couscous with sautéed beef and panzanella, a Tuscan bread-and-tomato dish that was produced with ingredients donated by the catering companies that supply the Olympic Village.
巴西頂級餐廳DOM的老闆阿歷克斯•阿塔拉(Alex Atala)曾經主持過一檔頗受歡迎的烹飪電視節目，星期四晚上，他幫忙準備了晚餐的菜譜：意式粗麥粉炸牛肉；還有“panzanella”，這是一種托斯卡納式的麪包配西紅柿，食材都是爲奧運村提供飲食的公司捐獻的。
Atala said the astounding deluge of international support was born of seemingly unrelated global movements: the growing awareness of food waste, the rise of the celebrity chef and widespread frustration over the persistence of hunger in even the most developed countries.
阿塔拉說，這樣驚人的國際援助，來自幾種看似毫無聯繫的全球運動：人們對節約食品的意識在增長；明星廚師的崛起；以及對飢餓現象的普遍沮喪，長期難以解決的飢餓問題甚至在大多數發達國家仍然存在。
“We are a generation of young chefs who are not competing with each other, but who want to share,” Atala, 48, said.
“我們年輕一代廚師不會彼此競爭，而是希望分享，”48歲的阿塔拉說。
The project is not Bottura’s first venture into culinary philanthropy. During the World Expo in Milan last year, he turned an abandoned theater into Refettorio Ambrosiano, and the center continues to operate.
這並不是博圖拉第一次嘗試烹飪慈善事業。在去年的米蘭世界博覽會上，他把一處廢棄的劇院改建成了“Refettorio Ambrosiano”，那個飲食中心現在仍然在運營。
His latest refettorio is a collaboration with David Hertz, a Brazilian chef who has spent the past decade training disadvantaged men and women to work as kitchen assistants and spreading the gospel of slow food, a movement that emphasizes local culinary traditions and high-quality, locally sourced ingredients.
這家最新的餐廳是他同巴西主廚大衛•赫茲(David Hertz)合作的成果，過去十年來，赫茲一直在致力於培訓身有殘疾的男女擔任廚房助手，並傳播“慢食運動”，該運動注重本土烹飪傳統，以及高質量的本地食材。
Nine months before the start of the games, and with little time to waste, Hertz persuaded the city’s mayor to provide an empty lot, and Bottura began the difficult task of raising $250,000.
奧運會開幕九個月之前，赫茲抓緊時間，說服里約市長提供一塊空地；博圖拉則承擔了募集25萬美元資金的艱鉅任務。
Last-minute appeals yielded a bevy of commercial-grade freezers, ovens and an ice cream maker. The structure, a gleaming industrial shed outfitted with art and crisp plywood furniture, was built in 55 days. Despite the generosity, the project ran over budget and created a nearly $190,000 hole that the organizers are trying to fill with donations.
最後時刻的呼籲，令這家店得到了一批商用級別的冰箱和烤箱，以及一臺冰淇淋機。這座建築也在55天內建成了，它是一座閃閃發光的工業風格小屋，裏面裝飾着藝術品，擺放着簇新的膠合板傢俱。儘管有各方面慷慨解囊，這個項目還是超出了預算，造成了將近19萬美元的虧空，組織者們正在試圖用捐款來填補。
With a 10-year lease to their sliver of land, Food for Soul, Bottura’s organization, plans to keep the venture going after the Olympics are over. To make it sustainable, Refettorio Gastromotiva will serve lunch to paying customers and use the proceeds to fund more than 100 free dinners each night for those in need.
博圖拉的組織“靈魂食糧”(Food for Soul)擁有這塊土地十年的租約，它計劃在奧運會結束後仍繼續運營。爲了能夠持續發展下去，Refettorio Gastromotiva將來還會向付費客戶提供午餐服務，並且使用這部分收益，每天晚上向100個有需要的人免費提供晚餐。
“This is not some pop-up project,” Bottura said.
“這不是一次性的臨時項目，”博圖拉說。
On Thursday, the second night of operation, the refettorio was the site of controlled chaos. Workers struggled to churn out three successive seatings while coping with a shortage of natural gas and an inadequate electricity supply that made it impossible to use the deep fryer, ovens and freezers at the same time.
星期四，也就是餐廳開張第二個晚上，這裏充滿有序的混亂。工人們忙着打造三排椅子；由於天然氣和電力短缺，導致炸鍋、烤箱和冰箱沒法同時工作。
At 6 p.m., the door flung open and the diners shuffled in, eyes wide with anticipation. The chef explained each course, which emerged from the open kitchen on simple white china. Cheers and applause filled the room.
到了晚上6點，門開了，用餐者們拖着腳步走進來，眼睛睜得大大的，充滿了期待。菜餚用簡單的白瓷餐具盛着，從開放式廚房裏端出來，大廚逐一向客人們講解。歡呼和掌聲充滿房間。
One diner, Rene da Conceição, said the food was the best he’d had in his 40 years, the past nine of which he has spent living with his wife on the streets of Rio.
一位名叫勒內•達•孔塞薩(Rene da Conceição)的用餐者說，這是他40年來吃過的最美味的食物，過去九年裏，他和妻子生活在里約街頭。
“Oh my God, he takes banana peels and makes incredible ice cream,” he gushed afterward. “And you know, we ate food from Italy!”
“上帝啊，他把香蕉剝了皮，做成了美味的冰淇淋，”事後他滔滔不絕地說道。“你知道嗎，我們吃上意大利餐了！”
A thin, bedraggled man with a wide, infectious smile, Conceição explained that his meals were usually scavenged from garbage bins and that he went to bed hungry many nights. Since the Olympics began, he said, police have barred him from Copacabana, a neighborhood that provides a cornucopia of discarded food and items like cardboard that can be sold to recyclers.
孔塞薩身材消瘦，髒兮兮的，臉上卻帶着富於感染力的笑容，他說，自己平常吃的都是垃圾箱裏撿來的東西，經常餓着肚子睡覺。他說，自從奧運會開始以來，警察禁止他進入科帕卡巴納，那裏有豐盛的丟棄食品，還有紙板箱之類可以賣給垃圾回收商的東西。
More than filling his stomach, Refettorio Gastromotiva, he said, had provided much-needed dollops of kindness and respect.
他說，Refettorio Gastromotiva不僅填飽了他的肚子，也帶來了一點他非常需要的善意與尊敬。
“These guys, they shake your hand and they treat you like you’re a boss,” he said. “I thought I was dreaming and told my wife to pinch me. But it wasn’t a dream.”
“這些人跟你握手，對你就像對老闆一樣，”他說。“我還覺得自己是在做夢，讓老婆捏我一下。但這不是在做夢。”
