歐美二手名牌時裝網店走紅(下)
Wainwright can see the potential for attracting those who shop at the highest end.
溫賴特十分清楚能夠吸引那些高端購物者的巨大商機。
A key growth area of The RealReal is jewellery.
The RealReal增長最快的領域是首飾。
We’ve set up valuation offices for fine jewels and watches in New York, Chicago, San Francisco and Los Angeles where you can meet with a gemologist and get a report about what they would sell for.
我們在紐約、芝加哥、舊金山以及洛杉磯等地建立了高檔首飾與腕錶的估價辦公室，委託人可與寶石專家見面，獲得自己二手奢侈品的評估報告。
It’s totally different to the pawnshop experience.
這與典當行截然不同。
Onsite you’ll find special edition Rolexes selling for more than $40,000 and Cartier bracelets for more than $10,000.
消費者能在網店上淘到售價4萬多美元的限量版勞力士腕錶與售價1萬多美元的卡地亞(Cartier)手鐲。
Noting the success of these womenswear platforms, in 2014 Arun Gupta started menswear market place Grailed — a reference to that specific piece you obsess over owning, but can’t ever find or afford.
看到二手女裝在線銷售平臺的成功後，2014年，古普塔(Arun Gupta)創建了Grailed男裝網店——特指個人覬覦已久、但苦尋無蹤或是超出自己財力之物。
The site began in his bedroom after he trained himself to code.
古普塔自從學會編碼方法後，就在自己臥室創建了Grailed網店。
In the week we speak, 50,000 items were on the site.
就在接受我採訪的那一週裏，Grailed網店上架了5萬件男裝。
The team has also just launched a content platform, Dry Clean Only, to profile and discuss the items on Grailed.
此外它最近還成立了內容平臺Dry Clean Only，對Grailed網店銷售的男裝進行簡介與評價。
When we started out there were five to 10 women’s marketplaces, already fairly popular, he explains.
我們成立伊始，已有5-10家知名度很高的二手奢侈女裝網店在運營，他解釋道。
A fashion obsessive, like Wainwright and Moizant he noticed that the second-hand gems came from personal connections, rather than surfing eBay.
作爲與溫賴特以及莫藏一樣的時尚癡迷者，古普塔留意到二手首飾往往從私人關係圈、而非eBay淘得。
Not having much money to spend, I spent hours on the internet looking for deals. I found the best prices — and best pieces — always came from friends or other enthusiasts on key menswear forums.
自己餘錢不多，所以在網上淘寶，我發現最低價格永遠來自自己的好友或是各大男裝論壇上的時尚癡迷者。
On Grailed, bestsellers are very much what’s currently big in stores; Saint Laurent, Raf Simons and Rick Owens, and streetwear brands such as Supreme and Palace, though the site also has a reputation for playing host to rare gems, such as Simons pieces from the 2000s.
Grailed上的暢銷貨往往與實體店的熱銷款大同小異；聖羅蘭(Saint Laurent)、拉夫•西蒙斯(Raf Simons)以及瑞克•歐文斯(Rick Owens)等時尚名品以及Supreme與Palace等街裝品牌的二手貨異常搶手，儘管Grailed還時常銷售稀缺款寶石（如產自21世紀初的拉夫•西蒙斯寶石）。
Gupta takes a low commission; 6 per cent.
古普塔只收取6%的佣金。
He identifies the same two user patterns as Vestiaire’s Moizant.
與Vestiaire的莫藏一樣，他也發現了客戶的兩大相同消費模式。
Some people are specifically looking for rare items to add to their ever-growing collections — we’re one of the few places you can find rare Japanese brands like Undercover and Julius.
有些消費者爲了增加自己藏品而專淘稀品——我們是少數幾家可淘到Undercover與Julius等日本稀有品牌的其中一家網店。
At the same time many people are just looking for good deals.
與此同時，很多消費者就想找物美價廉的二手貨。
So what do the brands have to say? Legally they have no right to complain, thanks to the precedent set by pivotal case Tiffany Inc vs eBay Inc in 2010.
那麼，各大品牌對此有何看法？從法律層面說，它們沒有申訴權利，這都要歸功於2010年蒂芙尼(Tiffany)起訴eBay的關鍵判例。
Ebay won. Brands were told that they can’t control the resale market.
法庭最初判eBay勝訴，各大品牌被明確告知eBay等網店難以控制再賣市場。
That case is so clear that there’s no obstacles for us to sell something that is previously owned, says Wainwright.
該判例清晰明瞭，所以我們銷售二手貨在法律上毫無障礙。溫賴特說。
We’re not going anywhere. The world has changed.
我們並非四處出擊，現在跟那時早就不一樣了。
And at some point brands are going to have to realise that.
總有一天，各大品牌會明白這一點。
Less than 5 per cent of The RealReal’s sales come from vendors, though Wainwright sees growing ways to collaborate with brands now their relationship has mellowed.
雖然The RealReal與各大品牌的合作方式越來越多（如今雙方關係日趨緊密），但只有不到5%的銷售額來自小二。
They are going through an evolution.
各大品牌對我們代銷網站的態度經歷了演變過程。
Our first year, I heard they hated us.
The RealReal成立第一年，我聽說它們對其恨之入骨。
Now, they’re keen to find a way to work together.
如今，他們挖空心思找法子與我們合作。
They’ve realised they can maybe learn something from our data.
對方意識到也許可以從我們的客戶數據庫瞭解相關情況。
In her mind, they should be grateful.
在溫賴特看來，各大品牌應對RealReal心存感激。
This year, we’re going to put into our consignors’ hands, all of whom are in the US right now, $220m in payment.
今年，我們打算把2.2億美元的返款全部交給二手奢侈品委託人（他們如今全在美國）。
They’ll use the money they make from the site to go back into the store to buy new — they’ll go and buy more.
他們會用這筆錢進實體店買新奢侈品——他們肯定會大買特買。
What they buy will be increasingly shaped by the resale market.
而消費者的購物習慣將越來越取決於二手時裝市場。
One of Wainwright’s proudest achievements is the way she’s slowly affecting the luxury market and changing how people shop — particularly by putting the spotlight on the true value of specific pieces and popular brands.
溫賴特最引以爲豪的是，自己正逐漸影響奢侈品市場以及正改變消費者的購物模式——尤其是讓消費者對特定款式與流行品牌的真實價值一清二楚。
The lack of lasting appeal for some key houses is evident in the sites’ pricing and sales and may surprise.
有些大品牌的吸引力難以爲繼，在網店的定價與銷售額量就已一目瞭然，這可能會出乎業界意料。
Although changes within a brand can do a lot to create resale buzz.
然而品牌內部的人事變動對於自身二手品的熱銷與否也會有巨大作用。
Two-and-a-half years ago, Gucci had really bad resale value, offers Wainwright, citing the recent appointment of Alessandro Michele as a turning point. Now it’s right up there — it’s big.
兩年前，古馳(Gucci)的二手貨售價差強人意。溫賴特主動說道，並說古馳最近聘請亞歷山德羅•米歇爾(Alessandro Michele)出任創意總監成爲其轉折點。
They reinvigorated the brand and people got excited, so now we can even sell old Gucci, from pre-Michele, particularly the logo stuff — it has value again.
如今古馳又成了高大上的搶手品牌，它又煥發出勃勃生機，消費者對其趨之若鶩，因此現在甚至米歇爾之前幾位創意總監設計的古馳（尤其是帶標識的那些類別）都容易出手——它又變得價值不菲了。
She feels resale educates consumers, giving them power and knowledge.
她認爲二手奢侈品的買賣很好地教育了消費者，讓其增加了信心、增長了見識。
Our shoppers look to check the resale value of things.
我們的消費者期望檢驗二手奢侈品的價格。
They do notice if a brand has no resale value and move away from it.
他們真的注意到：如果該品牌沒有二次銷售價值，他們就會移情其它品牌。
When I meet consignors they always say ‘You’ve changed the way I shop.’
我與委託人見面時，他們總是這樣說：‘您改變了我的購物模式。’
