時裝設計師跨界手工藝品 Makers marks

It’s perhaps no surprise the slow folk arts of former generations are returning to fashion just as the revolutions of the industry spin ever faster. From Erdem’s pastoral embroideries to the exquisite weaves at Alexander McQueen, which designer Sarah Burton called “artefacts of the hand”, many of the spring collections are a paean to vanishing craft techniques. The handmade effect is being felt off the catwalk, too, as a clutch of designers are now offering handmade homeware to complement their clothes.

時尚行業的變化一日千里，昔日不受待見的民間手藝重新風靡也許就不足爲奇了。從埃德姆(Erdem)田園風格的刺繡裝到設計師薩拉•伯頓(Sarah Burton)稱爲“手工精品”的亞歷山大•麥奎(Alexander McQueen)高檔針織毛衣，很多2106春季時裝都是“緬懷”消失已久的手工技法。如今隨着一些設計師開始推出手工打造的家居用品（與設計的時裝珠聯璧合），手工打造的影響力已顯現於T型臺之外。

For these designers, the artisanal approach enriches their creative process. The paper-cut collage and oil paintings that São Paulo shoe designer Lane Marinho produces are an intrinsic step in the creation of her decorative, hand-stitched sandals. “It’s all a form of self-expression,” she says. “It’s about creating a harmony of colours and objects that helps put the finished product into context. I know I’m only making sandals but this is also about the way I choose to live — and taking the time to pay attention to the details.”

對於這些設計師來說，設計手工藝品豐富了其創意過程。巴西聖保羅鞋履設計師萊恩•馬里尼奧(Lane Marinho)創作的剪紙拼貼與油畫圖案是設計裝飾主義的手工縫製涼鞋的關鍵。“這完全是一種自我表現形式，”她說，“它努力實現了顏色與物件的和諧統一，讓成品承前啓後。我清楚自己只是設計涼鞋，但這又表現了自己選擇的生活方式——而且不厭其煩打造細節。”

Arthur Yates of Bruta, the emerging London line whose casual shirting is sold at Liberty, creates hand-painted ceramic urns in conjunction with his collections. For Yates, it’s a chance to indulge his creativity, unbridled by the practical and physical constraints of clothing. But the pots are also a clever point of difference. As Yates puts it: “It’s a nice balance between a commercial product that nods to the traditional craft skill of embroidery and the fun and frivolity of decorative pots.”

Bruta是倫敦異軍突起的時尚品牌，其休閒襯衣系列在Liberty百貨銷售。Bruta的設計師阿瑟•葉芝(Arthur Yates)配合其時裝系列推出了手繪陶缸。對於葉芝來說，這是擺脫時裝外形與功用設計的種種侷限、肆意發揮自己創意才華的好機會；但設計陶瓷容器也是顯現自己與衆不同的高招。正如葉芝說：“這應合了傳統裝飾工藝的商品與裝飾性容器的愉悅感，真可謂兩全其美。”

This multidisciplinary method is a throwback to a Modernist era when the lines between decorative art and fashion were more blurred. Artists such as Sonia Delaunay thought nothing of stitching an evening gown one moment then painting furniture and canvases the next. “It was a time when clothing and art and furniture design were all participating in a dialogue with one another,” says jewellery designer Sophie Buhai, whose online store sells decorative objets she curates and designs. “Designing jewellery is one step away from fashion,” she says. “The art and design pieces create a frame of reference for my own work that goes beyond seasonal trends.”

這種跨界做法迴歸到現代主義風格盛行的時代，當時裝飾藝術與時尚之間的界限模糊不清。索尼亞•德勞內(Sonia Delaunay)等藝術家對一會兒手工縫製晚禮服、一會兒又在傢俱與畫布上作畫並不以爲然。“當時的時代，時裝與藝術及傢俱設計都是互通有無、互爲影響。”珠寶設計師索菲•布哈(Sophie Buhai)說。她的網店銷售她自己構思設計的裝飾藝術品。“我設計珠寶首飾就走出了第一步，與時裝抗衡。”她說，“藝術及設計物件給我的時裝設計提供了超越流行時尚季的參照物。”

At , customers will soon be able to invest in the luxurious textiles of New York knitwear brand Tabula Rasa which are used on everything from kaftans to wallcoverings. It’s the first time will sell interiors alongside a ready-to-wear collection. “Though small, the homeware allows the customer to buy into the lifestyle element, which will appeal to a woman who wears the clothing but appreciates the craftsmanship,” says Natalie Kingham, buying director at the online retailer. Could this be a sign of a wider creative shift? “We’re seeing more crafty designers and collections coming through. Pieces with a unique point of view are really resonating with customers.”

在網店，消費者很快能買到紐約針織品牌Tabula Rasa推出的奢侈款紡織品，它們可用於土耳其式長衫至壁紙的各種東西，可謂五花八門。這是網店首次把室內用品與主打產品成衣同時銷售。“儘管數量不多，但家居用品可讓消費者買到生活元素，讓喜歡時裝但又青睞手工技法的女性癡迷不已。”網店採購部負責人娜塔莉•金厄姆(Natalie Kingham)說。此舉是否是創意風向大變的標誌？“我們看到手工精品與時裝系列源源不斷面世。獨特時尚風格的物件真得讓消費者愛不釋手。”

If there’s one designer who has cemented craft’s new desirability, it’s Alessandro Michele. Hand processes have been at the heart of his Gucci renaissance, and his wild hair and eclectic vision lend him the air of a modern-day William Morris. Michele is an avid ceramics collector, a passion he indulges as the creative director of Richard Ginori, the historic Italian porcelain brand that Gucci saved from bankruptcy in 2013. Now, fans of his artisan aesthetic can replicate the chinoiserie on the catwalk with his hand-painted oriental ceramics.

哪位設計師讓手工技藝重新風靡，並且更加深入人心？非亞歷桑德羅•米歇爾(Alessandro Michele)莫屬！古馳(Gucci)重現輝煌，手工打造功不可沒，而米歇爾的一頭蓬髮與兼容幷蓄的理念，使他儼然成了現代版的威廉•莫里斯(William Morris)。米歇爾是狂熱的陶瓷藏家，在他擔任理查德•基諾里公司(Richard Ginori)創意總監時，他就沉溺於此。理查德•基諾里是歷史悠久的意大利瓷器品牌，正是古馳2013年出手相救，才使它免於破產。如今，其手工技藝之擁躉用他手繪的東方風格陶瓷作品，可原樣重現其T型臺上的中國藝術風。

If, as Michele believes, craft is a testament to human uniqueness, then buying into individuality has never been more enticing.

如果手工藝品是證明人類獨創性的標誌（米歇爾堅信），那麼擁躉購買這種個性十足的藝術品就會一發而不可收。

Lane Marinho

Lane Marinho

The designer Lane Marinho founded her eponymous sandal line in 2013, after quitting her job at a Brazilian shoe company. “I realised I’d moved too far away from the handicrafts I grew up with,” says Marinho, whose Bahian relatives taught her crochet and embroidery at a young age. Marinho’s sandals, which she hand-decorates in a jamboree of patchworks and seashells, often take their cue from the silhouettes of São Paulo’s Modernist architecture. Her Instagram feed is a mood board for the still-life compositions and Matisse-style collages that form the bedrock of her design process. Her soaring fan base includes style superblogger Man Repeller.

設計師萊恩•馬里尼奧從巴西某鞋廠辭職後，於2013年創建了這個同名涼鞋品牌。“我當時就意識到自己已經與從小熟悉的手工技藝漸行漸遠。”馬里尼奧說，在她小的時候，巴伊亞州(Bahia)的親朋好友就曾教她鉤針編織與刺繡技藝。馬里尼奧用拼布與貝殼手工打造狂歡活動的場面，其靈感通常來自聖保羅現代主義風格的建築外形。她在Instagram上的Feed網頁是由靜物組合體與馬蒂斯(Matisse)風格的抽象拼貼畫組成的情緒板，它們是她創作的基礎。她不斷飈升的粉絲羣中就包括了知名時尚博客The Man Repeller。

Dora-Mar sandal, with rope and natural shell, $600, by request;

點綴天然貝殼的Dora-Mar繩編涼鞋售價600美元，詳情請瀏覽以下網址：。

Sophie Buhai

Sophie Buhai

“They can look as good on a coffee table as they do on the body,” says Sophie Buhai of her sculptural silver jewels, which start life in the garden studio of her Spanish-style 1930s LA home. Buhai’s eponymous brand offers these accessories alongside artefacts and objet trouvé, from marble eggs to ikebana Japanese flower-arranging vases. It’s easy to imagine her blocky Hepworth bangle (and matching wooden totem) on display in the late sculptor’s Hampstead studio. For SS16, Buhai applies her bold, sparing style to cuffs, pendants and earrings in collaboration with the French design house Lemaire.

“它們擱在咖啡桌上與佩戴效果一樣棒。”索菲•布哈這樣評論自己手工雕刻的銀首飾。它們在她位於洛杉磯、建於上世紀30年代的西班牙風格寓所的花園工作室創作完成。布哈的同名品牌除上述配飾外，還包括從大理石蛋到日式插花用的花瓶的各式手工與天然工藝品。在已故雕塑家赫普沃思位於漢普斯特德(Hampstead)的工作室展出其設計的赫普沃思斑駁款手鐲（與木質圖騰相搭配），也十分自然契合。在她的2016年春夏季時裝中，布哈與法國時尚品牌Lemaire合作，用豔麗保守的風格設計護腕、吊墜與耳環。

Hepworth bangle, ￡497, with Ball ring, ￡276;

布哈設計的Hepworth手鐲售價497英鎊，其設計的Ball戒指售價276英鎊，詳情請瀏覽以下網站：。

Tabula Rasa

Tabula Rasa

“Yarns are like my pencil,” says textile designer Emily Diamandis, a passionate traveller who launched her line of luxurious and experimental knitwear Tabula Rasa with the idea of styling your space, wherever you are. Every collection is a medley of handcrafted techniques from crochet to macramé, with yarns sourced from across the world. “I’m at my most playful when I’m inventing and stitching swatches of fabric,” explains Diamandis. “Once they’re complete I’ll decide their fate — whether that’s a cushion or a cardigan, a hoodie or a hammock.” Tabula Rasa’s tape-yarn evening dresses and heavy wool, hand-fringed cushions are sure to be a hit for SS16.

“紗線就如同我的鉛筆。”織品設計師艾米麗•迪曼蒂斯(Emily Diamandis)說。酷愛旅遊的她推出的奢侈類與實驗性針織品牌Tabula Rasa，其用意是無論諸位身在何處，讓你所處的空間永遠時尚。她的紗線淘自世界各地，從鉤針到花邊，每個系列都是手工技藝的混搭。“我自創及縫製面料樣品時，最妙趣橫生。”迪曼蒂斯如此解釋道。“每次完成後，我就決定其最終用途——是做成軟墊還是羊毛衫、連帽衫還是吊牀。”由帶狀紗做成的Tabula Rasa晚禮服與手工縫製花邊的厚羊毛墊子肯定會成爲2016年春夏季的搶手貨。

Idris cushion, ￡565, Kokkola cushion, ￡565;

它推出的Idris墊子與Kokkola墊子售價均爲565英鎊，詳情請瀏覽以下網站。

Bruta

Bruta

“I make shirts and paint pots,” says designer Arthur Yates of Bruta, the unisex brand he launched in London last year. For SS16, Yates pays homage to the South American gaucho, with embroidered and patchwork button-ups in lusciously mossy hues, with matching painterly pots. “I like the chaotic nature of offering one-off pieces,” says Yates of the rugged agricultural milk churns that sell for three times the price of the shirts. “I’m from big urban London, but I pay homage to craft and nature and ideas of paradise because I want the human touch to be felt on the clothes.”

“我設計襯衣以及在陶罐上創作。”Bruta的設計師阿瑟•迪芝說，他去年在倫敦推出這個男女通用品牌。對於2016年春夏時裝季，他突出展現南美牧人的風格，用藝術罐與刺繡和拼接畫打造的新鮮苔蘚色系扣服裝相搭配。“我喜歡率性地設計一次性工藝品。”他這樣評價自己設計的結實耐用農用牛奶桶（其售價是所推襯衣的3倍）。“本人來自倫敦大都市，但我特別喜歡手工技藝以及大自然，對天堂觀念情有獨鍾，原因是我希望人類的感受可以在時裝上體現出來。”

Bruta Gauchos shirt, ￡120 (worn by male model) and Florista shirt, ￡150, from Liberty;

Liberty百貨公司推出的Bruta Gauchos男式襯衣售價爲120英鎊，Florista襯衣售價爲150英鎊，詳情請瀏覽以下網站：。