女人又淘氣了 內衣外穿成時尚大綱

You’ve done the big dress (or the very small one), the shoes, the jewels – all the stuff that goes on top. Which makes now, the time between the hoo of Christmas and the ha of new year, the best time to consider what goes underneath. Lingerie is once again having a moment.

諸位女士已把寬式女裙（或是迷你款）、鞋履、首飾等置辦到位——全是上檔次的品牌貨，如今考慮穿啥內衣來搭配可謂正逢其時。女式貼身內衣再次成爲時尚弄潮兒。

Fashion is in the throes of revisiting all things 1990s, from grunge (see Dries Van Noten’s jewelled flannel shirts, Junya Watanabe’s denims and Vivienne Westwood’s artfully frayed knits) to the ubiquitous platform trainers (Giuseppe Zanotti, Marc by Marc Jacobs and Christian Louboutin). So perhaps it’s no surprise that the underwear-as-outerwear trend is back. This time, however, it is less about what you see, and more about what you don’t.

從格郎基時尚（grunge，一種邋遢、不分性別的反時尚時尚，諸位只要看一下德賴斯•範諾頓(Dries Van Noten)飾寶石的法蘭絨襯衣、渡邊淳彌(Junya Watanabe)的工裝褲以及薇薇恩•韋斯特伍德(Vivienne Westwood)巧妙磨損處理的針織毛衣）到隨處可見的厚底運動鞋（朱塞佩•薩諾第(Giuseppe Zanotti)、馬克•雅可布(Marc Jacobs)、克里斯蒂安•婁伯丁(Christian Louboutin)等款式鞋），時尚界正努力復古上世紀90年代的各種時尚風。因此內衣外穿潮捲土重來或許也就不足爲怪了。但這一回，不是展示一目瞭然的外衣，更多的是介紹無法輕易看見的內衣。

Maria Williams, head of lingerie buying at Net-a-Porter, says: “What we’re seeing is a breaking down of boundaries between ready-to-wear and intimates. Ultimately, it’s a trend that is about bringing the focus back to the woman’s body.”

Net-a-Porter網店女士內衣採購部負責人瑪麗亞•威廉姆斯(Maria Williams)說：“如今衆目睽睽的是突破成衣與貼身內衣的界限。這種流行趨勢最終是重新把關注的目光投向女士的身體。”

It’s an attitude echoed by design duo Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana. “Lingerie is the maximum expression of a woman’s femininity,” says Gabbana. “Instead of covering a woman’s body, we prefer to accentuate its qualities.”

這種時尚做法得到二人設計組合斯特凡諾•加巴納(Stefano Gabbana)與多梅尼科•多爾切(Domenico Dolce)的附和。“貼身內衣最能展示女性的柔美與氣質，” 加巴納說。“我們更希望突顯女性身軀的柔美，而不是遮蔽。”

Sarah Shotton, creative director at lingerie retailer Agent Provocateur, says: “People increasingly want to subtly show off their lingerie and we are designing pieces to let them do that. But it’s not showing up for work in a pencil skirt and a bra; it’s about giving a hint of something.”

英國女士內衣公司Agent Provocateur創意總監薩拉•尚頓(Sarah Schotton)說：“消費者越來越希望巧妙地展露自己的內衣，我們的設計於是迎合其需求。但這並非招搖緊身窄裙與文胸的做工技藝，而是給人以某種遐想。”

See, for example the bestselling bras at Agent Provocateur: Annoushka (£160), a halter-neck-style in delicate lace; the Jet (£110), which criss-crosses the décolletage; and the tulle and silk Demelza (£125). Prim and proper they are not, but each bra is designed to give just a hint of what lies beneath when fully clothed.

比方說，諸位看一下Agent Provocateur那幾款最爲暢銷的文胸：Annoushka繞頸繫帶露背奢華蕾絲款（售價160英鎊）、十字交叉形Jet低胸露背款（售價110英鎊）以及Demelza薄紗絲綢文胸（售價125英鎊）。它們並不循規蹈矩，但每款文胸設計得讓人臆想聯翩。

At the spring/summer 2014 collections shown in Paris in October, Stella McCartney mixed her crisp suiting with sensuous lace-trimmed slip dresses and camisoles. She wasn’t the only one to mix innerwear and outerwear. There were bra-tops at Prada, Isabel Marant and Dolce & Gabbana, an endless parade of see-through lace at Burberry; fishnet bodystockings worn by melancholy Vegas showgirls at Louis Vuitton; big underwear-revealing skirts at Giambattista Valli; and layers upon layers of sheer everywhere from Balenciaga to Calvin Klein Collection.

去年10月在巴黎舉行的2014年春夏季時裝秀上，斯特拉•麥卡特尼(Stella McCartney)用蕾絲邊性感吊帶裙與貼身女背心與挺括西服巧妙混搭。象她這樣把內衣與外套混搭的設計師大有人在：普拉達(Prada)、伊莎貝爾•瑪蘭(Isabel Marant)、杜嘉班納(Dolce & Gabbana)均推出了自己的文胸式上衣，博柏利(Burberry)源源不斷推出透明蕾絲文胸，路易威登(Louis Vuitton)時裝秀憂鬱的拉斯維加斯歌舞女郎大秀網眼布緊身連體衣褲，詹巴蒂斯塔•瓦莉(Giambattista Valli)推出寬式露內衣褲的短裙以及從巴黎世家(Balenciaga)到卡爾文•克萊恩(Calvin Klein)推出的各種透明薄紗文胸。

The trend has even crossed over to the high street. “Outerwear and lingerie will intertwine further next season,” says Soozie Jenkinson, head of lingerie design at Marks and Spencer. “Clothing trends on the catwalks for spring will demand a variety of lingerie solutions.” This, she says, ranges from “look at me” items such as longline bralets and camisoles to skin-tone pieces designed to do a disappearing act under sheer fabric.

這種時尚風甚至影響到了高端時裝界。“外套與內衣之間的混搭將延續至下個服裝季，”瑪莎百貨(Marks and Spencer)內衣設計總監詹金森(Soozie Jenkinson)說。“今年春夏季T型臺上的流行時裝需要各種款式的內衣來裝點。”她說，它們從多鉤長線文胸與女式背心等傳統養眼款內衣到穿在透明薄紗外衣裏隱而不現的肉色內衣，應有盡有。

Of course, sex and fashion have never been strangers. But it would seem that these old bedfellows are in the process of renegotiating their relationship – perhaps as a result of the debate about hyper-sexualisation in popular culture, from Kate Moss’s Playboy shoot to Miley Cyrus’s twerking, Lily Allen’s flesh-baring music video parody, Terry Richardson’s sexualised brand of fashion photography, or the 50 Shades of Grey phenomenon. Even worthy artistic types have discovered a newfound reverence for, or at least fascination with, pornography. The work of Italian erotic film director Tinto Brass was celebrated in a documentary at the 2013 Venice Film Festival. Lars von Trier’s latest film, Nymphomaniac , is touted as an art house film with graphic unsimulated sex scenes, and boasts an all-star cast including Charlotte Gainsbourg, Shia LaBeouf, and Uma Thurman.

當然，性感與時尚從來都是形影不離。但這對“老閨蜜”似乎正在重新調整處理彼此之間的關係——從《花花公子》上凱特•莫斯(Kate Moss)的性感照片到麥莉•賽勒斯(Miley Cyrus)的電臀舞，從莉莉•艾倫(Lily Allen)裸露肉體的模仿秀音樂視頻、泰利•理查森(Terry Richardson)情色風格的時尚攝影到性愛小說《五十層灰》(Fifty Shades of Grey)，大概這是對過度性化的通俗文化辯論的結果吧。2013年威尼斯電影節(Venice Film Festival)上，意大利情色電影導演丁度•巴拉斯(Tinto Brass)的作品以紀錄片的形式試映；丹麥導演拉斯•馮•提爾(Lars Von Trier)的最新影片《女性癮者》(Nymphomaniac)因展示大量活春宮圖片而被譽爲藝術影片，其演員陣容超豪華——夏洛特•甘斯布(Charlotte Gainsbourg)、希安•拉博夫(Shia LaBeouf)以及烏瑪•瑟曼(Uma Thurman)等明星雲集。

Shotton says: “I think, with the likes of Miley Cyrus, things have got very extreme and that’s not necessarily sexy. I prefer to leave a little to the imagination”.

尚頓說：“我覺得，有了麥莉•賽勒斯(Miley Cyrus)這等明星，一切往往走極端，但不一定非得走情色路線，我更喜歡留一點點想象空間。”