舌尖上的美食 第29期:土鍋子 騰衝馬幫菜 Hotpot in Earthenware
Hotpot in Earthenware
土鍋子-騰衝馬幫菜
As another dish in the series of Dish for Horse Drivers, it is similar to the common Hotpot except that the vessel filled with food is made of pottery, which excels in preserving the heat and the taste. It is served as a welcome dinner for horse drivers, namely, a group of businessmen on the Ancient Tea Horse Road, when they finish the trade and come back home. Traditionally, the wife of the leader in the group is in charge of making the dish, which is by no means an easy job. To retain the original taste of the food filled in the earthenware, it must be boiled in chicken soup, ham soup or pork leg soup without any seasoning. Furthermore, rules must be obeyed to render the dish successful. Firstly, the food must be put in place with meat at the bottom and vegetables on the surface. Then, the one which can be boiled for a long time should be lay under the one that cannot. At last, to make it not only pleasant to tongue but to eye, food which is seemly and attractive should be put on top.
“土鍋子”這道菜和火鍋差不多，但它是燒製的粗製陶器，更容易入味。據說當年大馬幫安全歸來，馬鍋頭的夫人會備上它來爲凱旋的馬幫接風洗塵。炊鍋的湯水十分講究，一般用原汁雞湯、筒子骨湯或火腿骨湯，不另外添加佐料，以保證質地鮮甜。炊鍋的繁雜，在於葷素材料的層層碼放，“底葷上素”和“耐煮在下鮮嫩在上”，並突出重點考慮看樣，把工藝最複雜、味道最有號召力、看樣最好的，置於上層。
