舌尖上的美食 第28期:騰衝馬幫菜 趕馬肉 Meat for Horse Drivers

Meat for Horse Drivers

騰衝馬幫菜-趕馬肉

In winter, it is extremely chilly on the Ancient Tea Horse Road, a passage vital for business between China and South Asia. A group of businessmen, who ride on the horse, must press on even in the most unfavorable weather. Since their images are always associated with horse, they are also entitled “Horse Drivers”. Aside from commodities, the second important thing they must carry is cured meat, the food suitable for the journey. Being suitable means the food must be easily cooked in a short time for the extension of time dwelling on the Road is tantamount to the accumulation of danger. Traveling day and night, they wish they could finish the trade as soon as possible and head home staying with their family. Therefore, they are always having the meal in the simplest and quickest manner. They simply take out the cured meat, cut them into pieces and simmer them in the covered pot. Sometimes, if the fresh meat is available in the market, they will cook the fresh one instead. The dish is thus called “meat for Horse Drivers”. Being simple and convenient, it is the optimal choice for businessmen on the Road.

騰衝作爲茶馬古道的要衝，民間自然有馬幫菜傳承。其中最負盛名的就是“趕馬肉”。它實際就是燜肉塊。當年的趕馬人會隨身攜帶幹臘肉，吃飯時，取出來剁成大塊，燜上一大鍋，當然，如果遇上集市能買到鮮肉，他們就會用鮮的五花肉代替臘肉。 趕馬人在路上的每一天都冒着生命危險，行程多一天就多一份不安全，因此日夜兼程，飯菜以簡單、方便爲原則。“趕馬肉”就成了最佳選擇。