世上有一種時尚叫"祖母式潮流"
Is conservative the new radical? The fashion world certainly seems to think so. This season, designers filled their runways with restrained silhouettes that echo the graceful, showing-less-is-more aesthetic of generations past.
保守就是另一種形式的激進？時尚界顯然是這麼認爲的。本季設計師們推出的廓形保守的時裝頻頻亮相秀場，它們反映出了幾代人以前那種優雅端莊、露得少即爲美的審美觀。Designers are reimagining soignée staples for spring and summer─skirt suits, twin sets, below-the-knee dresses, kitten heels and frame bags─that appear anything but moth-eaten. In fact, fashion's neoconservative coup d'état feels deliciously defiant, given the excessively revealing styles pop culture celebrates. A quick flip through any supermarket tabloid yields an onslaught of oversexed stars and their indelicate fashion choices, which prompted a strict dress code for this year's Grammy Awards. When you factor in over-the-top street style and the all-round oversharing that has become pervasive, the reeled-in restraint of a bygone era looks more and more like a cool, quiet revolution.
設計師們開始重新打造優雅風格的春夏季主打──裙裝、兩件套、過膝連身裙、中跟鞋和夾框包等等，款款似乎都散發出陳舊的氣息。實際上，鑑於當代流行文化追捧的時尚風格過於暴露，時尚界這次爆發的新保守風格變革，這一挑戰頗受到歡迎和讚賞。隨意快速瀏覽任何一份低俗小報，你就會發現一大羣過度賣弄性感的明星和她們不甚文雅的時裝選擇，這也促成了今年格萊美獎頒獎禮採取了嚴格的着裝準則。再考慮到過於誇張的街頭時尚和無處不在的全方位的過度暴露，來自以往某個時代的約束看上去越來越像一次了不起的悄無聲息的變革。This dignified uprising can be spotted on many of today's most influential style setters─British fashion icon Alexa Chung, Russian supermodel Natalia Vodianova and Moda Operandi co-founder Lauren Santo Domingo, to name a few.
這一莊嚴的“時尚起義”的影響可在當今最具影響力的許多時尚引領者的身上看到，比如英國時尚偶像艾裏珊??鍾(Alexa Chung)、俄羅斯超模娜塔莉亞??沃迪亞諾娃(Natalia Vodianova)以及時裝品牌Moda Operandi的聯合創始人勞倫??桑託??多明戈(Lauren Santo Domingo)等。
'A young girl now doesn't want to dress like her mother; she finds her grandmother much cooler, ' said Nina Ricci creative director Peter Copping, who designed skirt suits inspired by his own nana. 'She wore little smart, tweedy suits. I always had a romantic notion of that.' But the designer, who modernized his separates by cutting them in a light-as-air bouclé woven onto organza, also drew inspiration from a much younger source. 'Someone told me a story about the [22-year-old] model Eliza Cummings and how when she got her first big money job she went straight out and bought a Chanel suit, ' said Mr. Copping. 'I thought, 'Wow, that's really clued up!' '
蓮娜麗姿(Nina Ricci)的創意總監彼得??科平(Peter Copping)說，現在的年輕女孩不喜歡打扮得和自己的母親一樣，她們反而發現祖母的着裝更加有型。科平就從他自己的祖母那兒吸取靈感設計了裙裝，他說：“她穿着時髦的粗呢小套裝，我一直覺得它很浪漫。”他通過採用織在歐根紗上的極其輕盈的圈圈紗面料來裁剪服裝，從而賦予它們現代氣息，他也從更年輕的一代人中汲取靈感。他說：“有人給我講過一個（22歲的）模特伊莉薩??卡敏斯(Eliza Cummings)的故事，講她如何在得到第一份高薪工作時立即就去買了一套香奈兒(Chanel)的套裝，我心想‘哇，那確實是在行！’”
In his spring collection, Bottega Veneta designer Tomas Maier, who has long imprinted the brand with a classic femininity, crafted sheer cardigans, calf-grazing dresses and a coat in the sort of rose print one might find on the walls of a '50s-era powder room. 'I never liked the obvious definition of 'sexy, ' ' said Mr. Maier. 'I actually don't even like the word. I prefer a woman to be sensuous and in charge─definitely in charge of what she's wearing.'
寶緹嘉(Bottega Veneta)設計師托馬斯??梅耶(Tomas Maier)素來給該品牌賦予了一種經典女性柔美氣質，他在其春季系列中打造了薄紗開衫、長及小腿的裙裝和玫瑰印花大衣，這種玫瑰圖案或許可在上世紀50年代盥洗室的 壁上看到。梅耶說：“我從來都不喜歡對‘性感’的淺顯定義，實際上我連這個詞都不喜歡，我更喜歡女性散發美感和擁有主導權，這裏當然是指對其着裝的主導。”Twenty-six-year-old designer Wes Gordon agreed. 'In serious times, you need serious chic. Anything cute feels bad right now. A grown-up, covered-up silhouette is the anti-cute, ' said Mr. Gordon, whose signature long-sleeve gowns and full skirts have been worn by bright young things such as Jessica Biel and Rita Ora. His spring collection had a red skirt suit worthy of Nancy Reagan. Among Mr. Gordon's inspirations: a book of Valentino Garavani's designs from the '70s (the house's current designers, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli, are also huge proponents of the conservative-but-cool look) and Greta Garbo. 'But late Garbo, when she was running around New York City with a popped collar, hiding from people, ' he said. 'It's good to be a little mysterious in the overcrowded, overexposed world we live in now.'
今年26歲的設計師韋斯??戈登(Wes Gordon)也認同這種觀點。他說：“非常之時需要莊重的風格。現在任何性感的東西都給人不好的感覺，而成熟嚴實的廓形則正是反性感的。”他設計的招牌式長袖禮服和傘裙受到了傑西卡??貝爾(Jessica Biel)和麗塔??奧拉(Rita Ora)等引人注目的年輕女星的青睞。其春季系列還推出了一套襯得上南希??里根(Nancy Reagan)的紅色裙裝。戈登的設計靈感源泉包括葛麗泰??嘉寶(Greta Garbo)以及一本有關華倫天奴??格拉瓦尼(Valentino Garavani)70年代設計的書（該品牌當前的設計師瑪麗亞??格拉齊亞??基烏里(Maria GraziaChiuri)與皮爾??保羅??皮喬利(Pier Paolo Piccioli)也是這種保守但又有型的風格的超級支持者）。他說：“嘉寶在世時，當她在紐約四處走動時，總豎着衣領躲避人羣。在如今我們生活的這個過於擁擠、過度暴露的世界中，保持一點神祕感挺好的。”
Even London's resident bad boy Christopher Kane is of a similar mind. 'Ladylike is the ultimate sexiness, ' said the designer. 'It's clean, elegant and in control. The famous saying, 'It's the quiet ones you need to watch, ' definitely applies to this style.'
就連倫敦的壞小子設計師克里斯托弗??凱恩(Christopher Kane)也持相同觀點。他說：“端莊高貴是性感的終極表現形式，它純淨、優雅、有節制，‘安靜者方值得關注’這句名言顯然可以用在這種風格上。”Although the movement centers on mature silhouettes, it's the accessories that carry it over into phenomenon territory. From the delicate stampede of pointy kitten heels and sensible block-heeled sandals to the flood of frame bags and collar-grazing necklaces, little touches are capable of creating big changes in attitude.
雖然此次時尚革新的中心是成熟時裝，但促使其獲得非凡發展的卻是配飾。從一款款鞋跟尖細的精緻中跟鞋、實穿的粗跟涼鞋再到大量涌現的夾框包和圍領式項鍊，小小的點綴便能讓時尚態度發生巨大的改變。'There is a shift in sensibility happening now─shoppers are moving away from conspicuous It-bags, the vertiginous platform heel and gaudy in-your-face jewels, ' said Kate Davidson Hudson, co-founder of the newly launched accessories shopping site Editorialist. 'What feels new is being a bit quieter and more discerning─having your subtle gold studs, cat-eye glasses, proper box bag and most importantly, the mid-heel shoe.'
新近上線的配飾購物網站Editorialist的聯合創始人凱特??戴維森??哈德遜(Kate Davidson Hudson)認爲：“現在消費者的實用性觀念正在發生轉變，她們開始遠離高調奪目的IT包包、令人眩暈的厚底鞋和華麗張揚的珠寶首飾，眼下時興的風格要更沉靜一些、更有品味──配上你淡雅的金色飾紐、貓眼款式眼鏡和得體的箱形手袋，更重要的是蹬上一雙中跟鞋。”Indeed, low-riding heels─from Louis Vuitton's Magic Square pumps to Miu Miu's squat, crystal-encrusted patent-leather numbers─have been star sellers for spring. There has also been an attendant uptick in popularity for the shoe brands that your grandmother and great-grandmother loved. Roger Vivier, the brand known for its low, pilgrim-buckle pump made famous by Catherine Deneuve in 'Belle de Jour, ' seems more popular than ever, both for its shoes and the book on its 75-plus-year history released last month with publisher Rizzoli. Ferragamo, another perennial ladies-who-lunch favorite, is celebrating the 35th anniversary of the Vara, its sweetly iconic gold bow-topped shoe, with a new campaign featuring of-the-moment women such as Ms. Santo Domingo and Chiara Clemente wearing the classic, dainty-heeled slippers. As of this month, they can be customized to one's liking on the brand's website with a choice of color combinations and materials, and the option to monogram the soles.
確實，從路易威登(Louis Vuitton)的Magic Square單鞋到MiuMiu鑲嵌水晶的漆皮便鞋，淺口鞋一直是春季的明星暢銷款。此外，一些祖母輩和曾祖母輩喜歡的鞋履品牌也一直呈現流行度上升的勢頭。例如，羅傑??維威耶(Roger Vivier)，這個牌子因爲凱瑟琳??德納芙(Catherine Deneuve)在影片《白日美人》(Belle de Jour)中穿着其帶扣的淺口單鞋而知名，而如今它似乎比以往任何時候都更受追捧。這要歸功於它出品的鞋履以及Rizzoli出版社在5月份出版的講述其逾75年曆史的那本書。菲拉格慕(Ferragamo)也是一個長期受貴婦青睞的鞋履品牌，其風格甜美的帶標誌性金色蝴蝶結釦的Vara鞋迎來了35週年紀念，該品牌以一項新宣傳活動進行了慶祝。其中桑託??多明戈和奇亞拉??克萊門特(Chiara Clemente)等當代著名女性便穿着這款鞋跟優雅的經典便鞋亮相。到本月爲止，消費者可在該品牌網站上根據個人喜好定製此款鞋子，可自由選擇色彩搭配和麪料，還可選擇將姓名的首字母交叉刻印在鞋底上。
One longtime Ferragamo Vara fan is Ms. Chung. 'I think one of the first times I was photographed, I literally sneaked into a Topshop [fashion] show and I was wearing a cardigan, some white tights and Ferragamo heels, ' recalled Ms. Chung, host of the music TV show Fuse News on the Fuse channel, and author of 'It, ' a book on her personal style and inspirations (out from Penguin in late October).
艾裏珊??鍾很久以前就是菲拉格慕Vara鞋的粉絲。她回憶說：“我覺得在我最早開始拍片的時候，我簡直就像溜進了Topshop時裝秀，我穿着一件開衫、白色緊身衣和菲拉格慕的鞋子。”如今她是Fuse 電視臺音樂電視節目Fuse News的主持人，並寫了一本名爲《It》的講述其個人風格和靈感的書（將由企鵝出版社(Penguin)在10月底出版）。She's also emblematic of a certain brand of young-fogy dressing that has become popular with the next generation of taste-makers, including 27-year-old sister-designers Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen, whose discreetly polished and structured bag designs for their label The Row have become industry favorites.
她也是某一派年輕但又保守着裝風格的代表人物，這種風格受到了她下一代時尚品味創造者的追捧，其中包括27歲的姐妹花設計師瑪麗-凱特??奧爾森(Mary-Kate Olsen)與阿什莉??奧爾森(Ashley Olsen)。她們爲自有品牌The Row精心打造和設計的手袋成爲了行業的最愛。The youthful duo's austere clothes have also become the ne plus ultra for tasteful, urbane women of all vintages. For spring, the designers showed ankle-grazing silk skirts and belted jackets in classic shades that looked simultaneously old-school and modern.
這對年輕設計師二人組設計的風格簡樸的服裝也成爲各年齡段品位不俗的都市女性的摯愛。她們在春季系列中推出了長近腳踝的絲質裙子和經典色調的束帶外套，它們看上去既懷舊又不失摩登。
Earlier this week, one of the biggest events on the fashion calendar took place. The Metropolitan Museum of Art's Costume Institute ball celebrated the opening of the exhibit 'PUNK: Chaos to Couture.' The annual gala has long been considered the sartorial event of the year, and the choice of punk as this year's theme feels particularly poignant. With its shredded T-shirts, creative facial piercings and mohawks, the riotous aesthetic, which peaked in the late '70s and early '80s, couldn't be further from the clean and sober silhouettes surrounding us now, but the motivations behind the two share some DNA.
前不久，時尚界最重大的盛會之一──紐約大都會藝術博物館時裝學院(Metropolitan Museum of Art's Costume Institute)慈善舞會啓動，拉開了“朋克：從混沌到時裝”(PUNK: Chaos to Couture)時裝展的序幕。這個一年一度的慶典長期以來就被視爲當年的時裝盛會，選擇朋克風作爲本年度的主題讓人覺得特別貼切。碎布條般的T恤、別具新意的面部穿孔和莫霍克式髮型，這些都是在上世紀70年代末和80年代初達到巔峯的朋克風的標誌，這種桀驁不馴的審美觀與當今我們周圍那些整潔莊重的風格相差十萬八千里，但二者背後的動機有着相同之處。
