“小吃天堂”曼谷下禁令關閉路邊攤

Authorities in Bangkok have banned street food from the capital’s major roads, causing an outcry in a city famous for its affordable roadside cuisine.

曼谷市政府部門下令，禁止商販在曼谷主要街道設立小吃攤。這個城市以價格實惠的路邊攤美食而聞名，因而此舉引發了強烈抗議。

In a move criticised by locals and culinary enthusiasts, thousands of vendors selling dishes such as spicy prawn soup and papaya salad will disappear by the end of the year in the interests of “order and hygiene”, according to city hall.

曼谷市政廳表示，到今年年底，在街邊售賣冬蔭功湯和木瓜沙拉等美食的數千小販將被清走，以維護城市的“秩序和衛生”。此舉飽受當地羣衆和廣大美食愛好者批評。

Wanlop Suwandee, chief adviser to Bangkok’s governor, said officials are “now working to get rid of stalls from all 50 districts of Bangkok” and return the pavements to pedestrians.

曼谷市政府首席顧問蘇萬迪表示，政府官員現正在清除曼谷50個區域裏所有的小攤販，確保將人行道“還給行人”。

“There will be no let-up in this operation. Every street vendor will have to move out,” he said in comments reported by the local news portal.

在接受當地新聞門戶的採訪時，蘇萬迪說道：“所有小攤販都將被清走，無一例外。”

For decades Bangkok, the most visited city in the world, has promoted itself as a key destination for the food-obsessed. Locals and foreigners dine on plastic chairs at folding tables, slurping steaming noodles at street food eateries that stay open until dawn.

幾十年來，曼谷一直是全球第一旅遊城市，讓世界各地的美食愛好者心生嚮往。在曼谷，無論是當地民衆，還是外國遊客，都會傾心於通宵營業的街邊小吃攤，坐在摺疊桌旁的塑料椅上，對着一碗熱氣騰騰的麪條大塊朵頤。

Roadsides clog up daily as workers rush to buy pineapple slices, fried chicken or sweet pork kebabs. Tourism, which makes up an estimated 15% of the economy, is buoyed by hundreds of street food tours through the subtropical city.

衝到小攤前購買菠蘿片、炸雞肉或者烤豬肉串的上班族每天都將街頭路邊擠得水泄不通。旅遊業的收入約佔曼谷經濟來源的百分之十五，而遍佈這座亞熱帶城市的數百個街頭小吃店大大振興了當地旅遊業的發展。

For the second year running, CNN this month named Bangkok as the city with the best street food on the planet.

本月，曼谷被美國有線電視新聞網評爲全球第一街邊美食之都。曼谷已經連續兩年獲此殊榮。

However, since seizing power in 2014, Thailand’s junta has led a campaign to “clean up” and “return happiness” to the country, focusing on issues such as late night drinking, corruption and the sex trade.

但是，自2014年泰國軍政府上臺以來，便開展了旨在“整頓風氣”、“把幸福還給國家”的行動，致力於解決深夜飲酒、腐敗和性交易等一系列問題。

Chawadee Nualkhair, a Bangkok-based street food blogger, said authorities’ previous attempts to remove stalls had failed.

曼谷街頭美食作家查瓦迪稱，曼谷政府先前曾嘗試清除路邊攤，但均以失敗告終。

“Street food was still too popular with the locals,” she said. “Of course, it would make Bangkok less charming. But it also takes a big chunk of cheap options away from working Thais, and closes up an avenue of work for many. Where will shop employees, construction workers and taxi drivers eat?” “街頭小吃還是太受當地民衆的歡迎了，”

查瓦迪說：“當然，路邊攤的確是讓曼谷市容受到了影響。但是，如果它們全被清走了，泰國的工薪族就少了很多平價的用餐選擇，也會剝奪很多工作機會。沒了路邊攤，商店員工、建築工人和出租車司機要吃什麼呢？”

Some of the city’s most acclaimed street food hotspots have been dismantled by developers who have bought land and evicted vendors.

曼谷最受歡迎的一些美食熱門區已被開發商清理。這些開發商買下了土地並將擺攤的小販驅逐出去。

Last year, the renowned Soi Sukhumvit 38 food market, which had operated for nearly 40 years, was destroyed to make way for a high-priced condominium. Some of the vendors selling pad thai and mango sticky rice were allowed to set up in the basement of a nearby building. Others selling egg noodles with BBQ pork and crab still squat in the area.

去年，爲了建造一座高價公寓，已有近40年曆史的知名美食市場素坤逸路38號被拆除。一些售賣泰式炒河粉和芒果糯米飯的小商販將攤位搬到了附近一棟建築的地下室裏。另一些售賣雞蛋麪和烤豬肉、烤螃蟹的小攤則依然駐紮在街區裏。

City hall says the central district of Siam has been cleared by police and that Chinatown’s Yaowarat Road and the backpacker haunt, the Khao San Road, made famous in the novel The Beach, are next on the list.

曼谷市政廳表示，警方已清掃了暹羅的中心街區。他們的下一個目標是唐人街耀華力路和因小說《海灘》而出名的揹包客聚集地考山路。

Along the busy streets of Thong Lor and Ekkamai, notices were warning vendors that the deadline to leave the area was 1 June. But it was brought forward to 16 April, after the traditional New Year holiday.

熙熙攘攘的通羅街和愛卡買街貼滿了告示——小販們必須在6月1日前搬離。但是最後期限被提前到4月16日，小販們必須在當地新年假期之後撤離。

Along Thong Lor on Tuesday, almost all the street vendors had left. Next to the spot where a popular chicken broth stall was based, a new sign says permits to trade have been revoked.

4月17日，通羅街上幾乎所有的小販都撤離了。在一個生意紅火的雞肉湯小攤旁立着一個牌子，上面寫着營業許可已被撤銷。

One vendor, a 61-year-old woman selling coconut and pumpkin sweets, said she was allowed to remain as she rented space in front of a pharmacy for about ￡5 a day, rather than using public space.

一位61歲的老婦人在街邊售賣椰子和南瓜甜品。她說，她在一個藥店門口以每天5英鎊（約爲人民幣44.1元）的價格租了一塊地方擺攤，沒有佔用公共空間，因此她可以繼續留在街上做生意。

“There is nothing I can do,” said the woman, who called herself Aunty Tao and said she had worked there for three decades. She added that for years, law enforcement had often confiscated equipment from unlicensed vendors and fined them up to ￡35.

這位老婦人自稱陶阿姨，已經在街上擺了30多年的攤了。她說，自己什麼都做不了。她補充道，多年來，執法人員經常沒收無證攤販的擺攤用具，罰款數額可高達35英鎊（約爲人民幣309元）。

There has been confusion about how the policy will be implemented. The area’s district chief, Boontham Huiprasert, said push-cart vendors who could move around would still be tolerated but larger semi-permanent stalls with seating would have to go.

這項政策將如何實行尚不明朗。該片區長官本桑說，可移動的小推車尚可網開一面，但是一些較大的、帶座位的半固定型攤位必須要撤離。

“Or if they can find a place to set up their shop without obstructing the sidewalk, such as behind the railing of the Thong Lor police station or some other private building, that would be OK too,” he said.

本桑說：“如果這些攤販可以找到一個不佔用人行道的地方擺攤，比如通羅警察局圍欄後面那片地方或者其他一些私人的建築，也是可以的。”