巴黎,中國遊客幻滅的浪漫

PARIS — Before arriving in the French capital, Wu Shuyun, a 56-year-old Chinese housewife, imagined Paris to be like a pristine film set for a romantic love story, picturing herself as a glamorous princess surrounded by elegant Parisians, decked out, perhaps, in Chanel.

巴黎——抵達法國首都前，現年56歲的中國主婦吳素雲（音譯）曾把巴黎想象成一個嶄新的電影片場，用來拍攝一個浪漫的愛情故事，而她本人則是一個迷人的公主，周圍環繞着優雅的巴黎人，他們身上穿的或許是香奈兒(Chanel)。

Instead, Ms. Wu from Kunming in southwest China, said she was shocked by the cigarette butts and dog manure, the rude insouciance of the locals and the gratuitous public displays of affection. Though friends had warned her about thieves targeting Chinese people, she said she was nevertheless surprised when a member of her tour group was mugged on a packed Metro car, as other riders watched.

然而，來自中國西南部城市昆明的吳素雲在這裏看到的卻是菸屁股、狗大便、當地人令人不快的冷漠以及個人情感在公共場合的無端外露，她說這一切讓她感到震驚。乘坐擁擠的地鐵時，她所在旅行團的一位團員在衆目睽睽之下遭到了搶劫，她說盡管有朋友提醒過她要當心專對中國人的扒手，她當時還是大吃一驚。

"For the Chinese, France has always been romantic, mysterious and desirable. We have been told that ‘God lives in France,' " she said recently after a two-week tour that included stops at the Eiffel Tower and Galeries Lafayette, an imposing, upscale department store with stained-glass domes where tour buses stop hourly to deposit tourists for marathon shopping sessions. "Once I realized that the Parisians were indifferent, I made the decision: Try to make the most of this trip, but never come back to Paris again."

“對我們這些中國人而言，法國一直是一個浪漫、神祕、令人嚮往的國度。我們聽說‘法國人過着神仙般的日子'。但在認識到巴黎人的冷漠之後，我立刻做了一個決定：要好好享受這次旅程，但我再也不會來巴黎了。”吳素雲不久前說這話時，已經結束了爲期兩個禮拜的巴黎之旅。這趟旅程的停靠站包含了埃菲爾鐵塔和老佛爺百貨商場(Galeries Lafayette)——後者是一家宏偉的高檔百貨商場，有着彩色玻璃穹頂，旅行團的巴士常常在此停留，讓遊客們進行馬拉松式的購物血拼。

A growing number of Chinese tourists in Paris — armed with wads of cash, typically unable to speak French and still somewhat na?ve about the ways of the West after decades of China's relative isolation — are falling victim to their unrealistic expectations of the city, while also being victimized by brazen thieves who target them because they are easily identifiable as Asian, Chinese tourism industry officials here say.

巴黎的中國遊客總是揣着大把的現金，通常不會說法語，並在某種程度上對西方世界抱有天真的想象——畢竟中國曾長期處在相對孤立的狀態。中國駐巴黎的旅遊業官員稱，越來越多的中國遊客因爲對這座城市懷有不切實際的期待而產生受騙上當之感；與此同時，他們還成了無良盜賊的俎上魚肉，這些盜賊專挑他們下手，因爲很容易就能看出他們是亞洲人。

Alarm that Chinese tourists are at risk from bandits is so acute that the Chinese government recently considered sending police officers to Paris to help protect them. Paris tourism officials said the proposal was shelved amid concerns over how they would operate.

中國遊客所面臨的遭遇搶匪的風險令人極度焦慮，以致於中國政府最近曾考慮派警察到巴黎保護他們。巴黎旅遊業官員稱，由於中國警察將如何執行任務的問題引發了各種擔憂，這一提議被暫時擱置了。

The French capital — celebrated for its beauty, culture and savoir faire — still retains huge allure, making it the No. 1 destination in Europe for China's burgeoning middle class and growing legion of millionaires, according to the European Federation of Chinese Tourism. Nearly one million Chinese tourists came to Paris last year, according to the Paris Tourism Office, spending more than one billion euros on everything from Cartier watches to meals at Michelin-starred restaurants, and outspending both Japanese and Americans on shopping. Now, however, Paris's glittering image in China is losing its luster amid reports of robberies of Chinese tourists, according to Chinese newspapers and social media.

歐洲華人旅遊業聯合總會（European Federation of Chinese Tourism，簡稱EFCT）稱，因爲美景、文化和得體舉止而聞名遐邇的法國首都仍然具有巨大的吸引力，讓它成爲中國新興的中產階層以及日益擴大的富豪羣體在歐洲的首選旅遊目的地。巴黎旅遊局(Paris Tourism Office)的數據顯示：去年，共有近100萬名中國遊客到訪巴黎。他們購買卡利亞(Cartier)腕錶，在米其林星級餐廳裏吃大餐，總消費額突破了10億歐元。此外，他們的購物總支出比日本人和美國人還要高。但中國報紙和社交媒體稱，眼下中國遊客遭搶劫的新聞報道，讓中國人心目中熠熠生輝的巴黎黯然失色。

A group of 75 French luxury brands, including Louis Vuitton, Chanel and Hermès, warned last year that high-spending Chinese tourists fearful for their safety could choose to go to Italy or Britain instead. Concerns about the consequences for the country's vaunted tourism industry have intensified as the French economy has stagnated.

一個由路易威登(Louis Vuitton)、香奈兒、愛馬仕(Hermès)等75個法國奢侈品牌組成的團體去年警告稱：由於擔心人身安全得不到保障，那些出手闊綽的中國遊客有可能選擇去意大利或者英國，而非法國。在法國經濟停滯不前之際，人們越來越擔心這會給該國引以爲傲的旅遊產業帶來負面影響。

According to the Paris-based European Federation of Chinese Tourism, which represents 30 travel agencies catering to Chinese tourists, the number of group tours coming to the French capital has fallen 20 percent so far this year compared with 2013. The Paris Tourism Office said that a 21 percent jump in the number of Chinese tourists last year had nearly halved in 2014.

總部位於巴黎的歐洲華人旅遊業聯合總會(European Federation of Chinese Tourism)由30家服務中國遊客的旅行社組成，該協會提供的數據顯示：今年到目前爲止，以巴黎爲目的地的團體遊數量較2013年同期減少了20%。巴黎旅遊局稱，中國遊客的數量去年增長了21%；今年的增長率已經下降了近一半。

Chinese nerves were already frayed after a group of 23 Chinese on a tour of Europe were attacked in March of last year in the gritty northern suburbs of Paris just hours after they landed at Charles de Gaulle Airport. The group leader was injured, and the thieves fled with 7,500 euros — about $9,600 — passports and plane tickets.

去年3月的一起案件已經令中國人神經緊繃，一個由23組成的歐洲旅遊團在戴高樂機場(Charles de Gaulle Airport)落地幾個小時後，就在混亂的巴黎北部郊區遭到襲擊。旅行團負責人受傷，劫匪搶走了7500歐元（約合5.9萬元人民幣）、護照和飛機票。

After six Chinese students studying winemaking were mugged in Bordeaux three months later, Beijing demanded that the French government take action.

三個月後，六名學習釀酒的中國學生在波爾多遭到搶劫，北京方面要求法國政府採取行動。

Pierre Shi, secretary general of the European Federation of Chinese Tourism, said Chinese visitors were being preyed upon because they were known to carry large amounts of cash to avoid paying multiple currency exchange fees. Bargain-seeking Chinese tour operators were also booking hotels in Paris's northern suburbs.

EFCT祕書長石恆餘(Pierre Shi)表示，中國遊客成爲搶劫目標是因爲衆所周知，他們喜歡攜帶大量現金，以避免支付多重貨幣兌換費。貪便宜的中國旅行社預定的都是巴黎北部郊區的賓館。

"Chinese tourists are attracted to Paris by the glamour, by the desire to buy designer brands, by an image of France as a country of philosophers and revolution," said Mr. Shi, who runs his own travel agency, ID Travel Pro. "But now, they are afraid to come. Before, they wouldn't think twice."

“吸引中國遊客來巴黎的是它的魅力、設計師品牌，以及那種以哲學家和革命著稱的國家形象，”石恆餘說。“但他們現在不敢來巴黎。以前是想都不想就來了。”石恆餘開了一家名爲ID Travel Pro的旅行社。

Psychologists warned that Chinese tourists shaken by thieves and dashed expectations were at risk for Paris Syndrome, a condition in which foreigners suffer depression, anxiety, feelings of persecution and even hallucinations when their rosy images of Champagne, majestic architecture and Monet are upended by the stresses of a city whose natives are also known for being among the unhappiest people on the planet.

心理學家警告稱，在盜賊和失望情緒的打擊下，中國遊客可能會患上巴黎綜合症(Paris Syndrome)，當外國人對香檳、宏偉建築及莫奈(Monet)的美好想象因這座城市的壓力感而破滅時——巴黎人被認爲是世界上最不幸福的人之一——他們會感到沮喪、焦慮，出現抑鬱、焦慮、被害妄想，甚至是幻覺。

The expression was first coined 30 years ago by a Paris-based Japanese psychiatrist, Hiroaki Ota, after several Japanese visitors to Paris fell ill when their culture of politeness and reserve rubbed up against Gallic haughtiness.

30年前，居住在巴黎的日本心理學家太田博昭(Hiroaki Ota)首次提出了這個說法，當時幾名到訪巴黎的日本遊客因爲其禮貌、拘謹的文化與法國人的傲慢發生碰撞而患病。

Dr. Ota said in an interview in his office that because China had been closed off to the West for so long, some Chinese travelers could be at risk for culture shock and depression when faced with the harsher realities of a city they had over-idealized. But he noted that the Chinese were less susceptible to Paris Syndrome than the Japanese, since they were fortified by a directness and an outsize sense of self that was similar to the French.

太田博昭博士在辦公室接受採訪時表示，由於中國對西方閉關鎖國多年，一些中國遊客在面對這個被他們過度美化的城市的殘酷現狀時會產生文化衝擊和沮喪感。但他指出，與日本人相比，中國人不易患巴黎綜合症，因爲他們像法國人一樣直接、自大，內心強大。

"Whereas Japanese are reserved, polite and formal, the Chinese have a strong sense of national pride like the French, and they are not shy," he said.

“日本人是含蓄、禮貌、拘謹的，中國人則像法國人一樣有強烈的民族自豪感，而且他們不會害羞，”他說。

Thomas Deschamps, the head of research at the Paris Tourism Office, said culture shock was particularly prevalent among travelers from Asia, who sometimes wrongly perceived the French capital as a museum.

在巴黎旅遊局負責研究工作的托馬斯·德尚(Thomas Deschamps)說，亞洲遊客有時候會誤以爲法國首都是一座博物館，他們尤爲可能遭受文化上的衝擊。

"They watch movies like ‘Amélie Poulain'; they think all Parisians carry Louis Vuitton purses and smell like Dior," he said. "They don't know about the working-class suburbs, the overworked waiters, the grittier parts of the city. Paris is not a museum. People are busy, they are stressed, they are living their lives."

“他們看的是《天使愛美麗》之類的電影；他們以爲每個法國人手上都拿着路易威登包，身上都散發着迪奧(Dior)香水的味道，”他說，“他們不瞭解住在郊區的工薪階層和勞累過度的侍應生，不瞭解這個城市不那麼光鮮的一面。巴黎不是一座博物館。人們忙忙碌碌，頂着壓力，過着自己的生活。”

To help protect and reassure Chinese tourists, Mr. Deschamps said, the city has beefed up security at popular sites like the Eiffel Tower and the Louvre, while instituting warnings in Mandarin to be vigilant against pickpockets on the Paris Metro.

德尚說，爲了幫助保護中國遊客、打消他們心頭的顧慮，這座城市已經在艾菲爾鐵塔、盧浮宮( Louvre)等廣受歡迎的景點加強了安保措施，並在巴黎地鐵上用普通話警告乘客小心扒手。

The Paris police have also introduced complaint forms in Chinese.

巴黎警方還推出了中文的投訴表格。

Meanwhile, the tourism industry has redoubled its efforts to be more culturally sensitive. An online guide for hotels and businesses produced by the Chamber of Commerce for Tourism in Paris notes that for visiting Chinese, a "simple smile and hello in their language will plainly please them."

與此同時，旅遊界正加倍努力地提升自己的文化敏感度。巴黎旅遊業商會(Chamber of Commerce for Tourism in Paris)爲酒店和商家制作了一份在線指南，那上邊說：接待中國遊客時，“奉上一個簡單的微笑，再用他們的語言跟他們簡單地打聲招呼，就可以很明顯地讓他們高興起來。”

While thieves and Gallic aloofness could be a hazard, some Chinese in Paris said they deserved some of the blame for the French reactions they sometimes provoked.

巴黎的一些華人表示，中國遊客可能會因扒手以及法國人的冷漠而受到傷害，但他們也要對法國人的反應負一定的責任，有時候，那些反應正是他們自己挑起來的。

"The Chinese are used to spitting. We are used to snapping our fingers to get attention, or even yelling," said Mr. Shi, the Chinese travel agency federation chief. "But if you do that with a French waiter, they will ignore you even more."

“中國人習慣於隨地吐痰。我們還習慣於通過打響指或者大喊大叫來引起注意，”石恆餘說，“但你要是對着法國侍應生做這樣的事情，他們只會更加忽視你。”